ILFRACOMBE. 5 



fail of being observed. Crabs are hunted and tortured 

 by all amiable boys ; and the bone of the cuttle-fish duly 

 prized. But in regard to its marvels and its inhabitants, 

 the sea was a new acquaintance to make. Mr Gosse and 

 others had made marine zoology fashionable. The 

 Aquarium at Regent's Park had given glimpses of the 

 wonders and the beauties which abound on the shore ; 

 and as a student of Comparative Anatomy, I had been 

 led to read extensively respecting the structure and 

 functions of marine animals ; but of direct knowledge 

 I had next to nothing. I had learned something of 

 ponds and their inhabitants, and was now desirous of 

 ransacking the sea. 



Ilfracombe was the spot fixed on : a more charming 

 spot England could hardly furnish. At first I knew 

 not how much of the delight with which its beauty 

 thrilled me might be owing to the mere efi"ect of com- 

 parison and novelty. After the metropolis, any broad- 

 ening blue of sea, any bold headland or straggling reef, 

 seems supremely beautiful— and novelty is, in itself^ 

 • an integer in all traveUing enjoyment. But familiarity 

 only served to deepen my sense of the beauty of Ilfra- 

 combe ; the very last look was taken with a reluctance 

 springing from unsatiated desire ; and on reaching 

 Tenby, also a charming spot, the overpowering sense 

 of disappointment assured me that Ilfracombe was the 

 enchantress she had seemed. I will not describe Ilfra- 

 combe, and for two reasons : Pirst, it would occupy all 

 the chapter ; and, secondly, which perhaps is as good a 

 reason as the other, I have no descriptive talent. Had 



