192 SEA-SIDE STUDIES. 



may not be so easily explained. I had a fixed idea on 

 this point ; no argument could make me swerve from 

 it. The main attraction was doubtless lurking in my 

 profound geographical ignorance, which invested these 

 Isles with a mysterious halo. In days when ladies 

 take pleasure-trips to Algiers, and reach it in four days, 

 or run up the Nile, as formerly they scampered through 

 France, any real bit of untravelled country necessarily 

 creates an interest ; and for travellers, in the adven- 

 turous or pleasure-hunting sense, Scilly is as virgin 

 ground as Timbuctoo. Vessels in abundance touch 

 there ; but who goes there ? Indeed, on entering a shop 

 to make a small purchase, the bland woman compas- 

 sionately inquired whether I had been " driven by 

 contrary winds " to this unfrequented spot ; evidently 

 never conceiving the possibility of a sane English- 

 man coining here. They are also difficult of access : 

 " a very dangerous flat, and fatal, where the carcasses 

 of many a tall ship lie buried/' Ten days, owing to 

 contrary winds, were consumed in getting here ; and 

 under the most favourable conjuncture of trains, coaches, 

 and winds, three days would be the very shortest time 

 required. This difficulty secures the place from the 

 nuisance of " visitors." Moreover, I had an idea of 

 its being a good spot for zoological research ; and with 

 these two advantages, I could afford to listen unmoved 

 to the sarcastic questions pelted at me, such as : Can 

 you get anything to eat there ? Are the Islands in- 

 habited ? Do the people speak English ? Are they 

 civilised ? 



