300 VALDiVIA. [cuAP.xir 



any otiier tribe which I had before seen. Their expression is 

 generally grave, and even austere, and possesses much character : 

 this may pass either for honest bluntness or fierce determination. 

 The long black hair, the grave and much-lined features, and the 

 dark complexion, called to my mind old portraits of James I. 

 On the road we met with none of that humble politeness so uni- 

 versal in Chiloe. Some gave their " mari-mari '* (good morning) 

 with promptness, but the greater number did not seem inclined 

 to offer any salute. This independence of manners is probably a 

 consequence of their long wars, and the repeated victories which 

 they alone, of all the tribes in America, have gained over the 

 Spaniards. 



I spent the evening very pleasantly, talkmg with the padre. 

 He was exceedingly kind and hospitable ; and coming from 

 Santiago, had contrived to surround himself with some few com- 

 forts. Being a man of some little education, he bitterly com- 

 plained of the total want of society. With no particular zeal 

 for religion, no business or pursuit, how completely must this 

 man's life be wasted ! The next day, on our return, we met 

 seven very wild-looking Indians, of whom some were caciques 

 that had just received from the Chilian government, their yearly 

 small stipend for having long remained faithful. They were 

 fine-looking men, and they rode one after the other, with most 

 gloomy faces. An old cacique, who headed them, had been, ] 

 suppose, more excessively drunk than the rest, for he seemed 

 both extremely grave and very crabbed. Shortly before this, 

 two Indians joined us, who were travelling from a distant mission 

 to Valdivia concerning some lawsuit. One w^as a good-humoured 

 old man, but from his wrinkled beardless face looked more like 

 an old woman than a man. I frequently presented both of them 

 with cigars ; and though ready to receive them, and I dare say 

 grateful, they would hardly condescend to thank me. A Chilotan 

 Indian would have taken off his hat, and given his " Dios le 

 page ! " The travelling was very tedious, both from the bad- 

 ness of tlie roads, and from the number of great fallen trees, 

 which it was necessary either to leap over or to avoid by making 

 long circuits. We slept on the road, and next morning reached 

 Valdivia, whence I proceeded on board. 



A few days afterwards I crossed the bay with a party o\ 



