DIAMOND- C UTTING. 2 1 1 



invented in Paris, under the auspices of Cardinal Mazarin ; but Taver- 

 nier describes the diamonds of Aurungzebe as being of the rose-cut. 

 Therefore, we must give a more ancient date to the pattern than 

 Mazarin's day. The form of the rose-cut is simply tliat of a hemis- 

 phere, covered with small facets. Its flattened base is therefore ad- 

 mirably adapted for incrustation-work, and the foil on which it is 

 usually set serves as a reflector for the entering rays of light. The 

 rose-pattern has several names, indicating the number of facets. If it 

 has but twelve or less facets, it is called an AntwerjD rose ; if but 

 eighteen or twenty, it is a semi-Holland ; and a Holland rose, if it 

 bears twenty-four facets. At the present time these gems are not in 

 much demand, unless for incrustation-work, for which they are supe- 

 rior, both in eflect and in adaptability to the surface of the object to 

 be ornamented. 



The form which appears to exhibit the splendors of the gem to the 

 best advantage, is that known as the brilliant, and is rightly named 

 from its effects. It was discovered in Italy, in the latter part of the 

 seventeenth century, by Peruzzi, of Venice, which city was then one 

 of the chief gem-marts of the world. The conclusions which led to 

 the adoption of tliis shape were derived from experiments upon col- 

 ored stones. This form of the brilliant is that of the ancient deep 



Fig. 13. The Nassack. Weight, 78% carats. 



table modified by receiving thirty-two facets above and twenty-four 

 below its girdle. The great relative depth of the gem, aided by the 

 numerous facets of the sides, appears to increase the natural refractive 

 power of the stone by confining, as it were, the rays of light inside of it. 

 Another pattern, called the brilUolette, shows the beautiful quali- 

 ties of the gem to great advantage. It is formed like two rose-dia- 

 monds joined together at the base ; or may be flattened and elongated 

 like an almond, and faceted all over with small facets. This is the 

 form of the Sancy, and should have been given to the Koh-i-noor 

 and the Star of the South. The Austrian yellow diamond is of this 

 pattern, and was probably cut in India. And it is thought that the 

 famous twelve Mazarin diamonds were also cut after this pattern. 

 The star-pattern, which was invented by Cane, is but little used at 

 the present time. 



