1915] WAITING FOR THE SHIP 189 



safe rounding of Cape Alexander with old Torngak watch- 

 ing every move from north or south. 



I am convinced that the very devil himself lives at 

 that place and never sleeps. Winter and summer it is 

 the same. Very few Eskimos dare to go around in 

 their kayaks even in moderate weather. Within a very 

 few minutes a placid, innocent stretch of water is con- 

 verted into a heaving, tumbling, dangerous sea. In 

 addition to this menace, there are great herds of walrus 

 always feeding there which are inclined to follow a 

 boat, attracted, I think, by curiosity. Some weeks 

 previous, when passing that point, an Eskimo following 

 us in his kayak uttered a terrified yell. We turned 

 quickly and rowed back as a herd of walrus could be 

 seen gaining rapidly on him. Our speedy arrival 

 turned the herd to one side, much to the Eskimo's 

 peace of mind. 



The devil, upon this occasion, doubtless out of respect 

 for the ladies, kept quiet and permitted us to round in 

 safety and proceed to Retreat Cove, where we made our 

 first camp just after dark. Learning from Jot that a 

 young walrus was here in cache, we soon had a portion 

 of him out, cut up, and in the cooking-pot. "My! 

 Isn't it good!" we exclaimed to one another as we sat 

 in the darkness of the tent, chewing that delicious meat. 

 To our surprise, upon awaking in the morning we 

 found our hands and wrists literally red with blood. 

 In the hasty preparations of the preceding evening, in 

 our impatience, we had not even waited for the meat 

 to warm through. 



When passing Sulwuddy on our second day's trip, we 

 saw a walrus standing up in the water with head thrown 

 back, fast asleep. With tent pole poised and ready as 



