362 FOUR YEARS IN THE WHITE NORTH 



had to move. He headed for an iceberg about a half- 

 mile from camp, and made it before the dogs "treed" 

 him. Dressed only in their underclothes, boots, and 

 rifles, my two companions hurried out after him. I 

 stopped long enough to augment my costume by a pair 

 of snow-shoes, my hunting-knife, and my camera. 

 When I got out to the bear the dogs were worrying him 

 sadly; they seemed to annoy him grievously; every 

 hair on his body was dripping perspiration, and every 

 few moments he threw his great head into the wind to 

 take a sniff of its ozone. I photographed him to my 

 heart's content, and then put a .32 Remington bullet 

 through his skull. His soft, golden-white pelt was 

 beautiful. 



From Camp Marvin we made a visit to Fort Conger, 

 the site of Major Greely's headquarters. We camped 

 there one night, boiling our meat and tea on the old 

 Army Range No. 1 which still stands in good condition, 

 though rusty, in the kitchen, the only part left of the 

 headquarters' house. We made excellent coffee from 

 some we found in a sealed tin in the old kitchen; strange 

 to say, it retained its aroma fresh and strong; we en- 

 joyed it very much, and when we left, Esayoo took 

 several pounds with him. All about the place, even in 

 the kitchen, we found relatively fresh spoor of many 

 musk-oxen. To search about the ruins was very in- 

 teresting, though not much is left of all the equipment 

 abandoned by the expedition. The tablet put up to the 

 memory of C. W. Paul and J. J. Hand, of H.M.S. 

 Discovery, members of Nares's North Greenland Explor- 

 ing Party, who died of scurvy while out on the trail, 

 and who were buried at Hall's Rest on Polaris Bay, 

 stands clear and uninjured by storm and wind. 



