EXPERIMENT STATION BULLETINS. 261 



PRUNING. THE TREES. 



If pruning begins in time, and is thoroughly done while the trees are 

 small, it will greatly lessen the necessity for the removal of the large 

 branches later on, and will thus lengthen their life. During the first two 

 or three years the surplus shoots that start should be rubbed out and all 

 branches that get much beyond their fellows should be cut in. As the 

 trees increase in size all shoots should be removed from the main branches 

 so that there will be no side branches within four or five feet of the main 

 trunk. 



While no general rules can be given for pruning that will apply in all 

 cases, the following will be found useful: (I) Remove all dead branches 

 as soon as they appear, cutting them back to sound wood. (2) Keep the 

 head open enough to admit of the easy gathering of the fruit, and the 

 entrance of the air and sunlight to the leaves and fruit on the inner 

 branches, but avoid the opening up of the heads so as to allow the sun to 

 enter and strike with full force upon the naked stems and branches. (3) 

 Prune so as to secure a symmetrical head to the trees. By proper prun- 

 ing a portion that is weak can be made to fill out, while the strong-grow- 

 ing branches can be restrained. (4) If a low, spreading variety has a 

 tendency to carry its branches too near the ground and thus prevent culti- 

 vation, it is not necessary to cut them back to the trunk, as a point can 

 generally be found where a side branch has an upward tendency, and if 

 the end is cut off to this point the trouble will be obviated. 



"When the only pruning required is the rubbing out of surplus shoots 

 or such cutting out as can be done with a knife, it can be done at any 

 time; but, if it has been delayed until a saw is required, care should be 

 taken that a suitable time is selected. While pruning may be done in any 

 month while the leaves are off from the trees, it will generally be prefer- 

 able to prune young trees during the latter part of March or the first half 

 of April. If delayed until the sap starts, harm is often done by the sap 

 running down the trunks and injuring the bark. Pruning at this time 

 has a tendency to cause a development of stem and leaf, while if per- 

 formed after growth has started a check is given to the growth of the trees 

 and a development of fruit buds is promoted. For trees that have reached 

 a bearing age, and owing to their strong growth have formed no fruit 

 spurs, it is a favorite practice with some persons to delay the pruning 

 until the leaves have appeared, say about the middle of May, and then 

 give the necessary pruning. 



Wounds made in the fall or winter become dried out and are much 

 slower in healing over than those made in the spring and early summer, 

 which is an added reason for spring pruning. If at any time it becomes 

 necessary to remove large branches, the wound should be at once covered 

 with paint or other material that will prevent it from drying out. By 

 coloring it sojthat it resembles the color of the barkj it will be less 

 unsightly. 



CULTIVATING THE ORCHARD. 



It is generally admitted that some hoed crop should be grown in young 

 orchards. In making the selection it is best to choose one that will 

 require frequent cultivation up to the first or the middle of August, and 

 that will not necessitate the stirring of the soil to harvest it until after the 

 middle of October. Corn, late potatoes, squashes, and beans are among 



