THE SECRETARY'S PORTFOLIO. 3G9 



which is to bear flowers tlie following season. But spirasas, lilacs, althaeas, and 

 houeysuckles may be trimmed during tlic winter or early spring, and the 

 branches should be reduced only enougii to keep them in good shape. The old 

 growth should be occasionally thinned out, and suckers and root-sprouts 

 removed. The best time, however, for pruning all shrubs is when they have 

 done flowering. The plumed hydrangea should be severely cut back and 

 thinned early in spring. In pruning evergreens, use the knife occasionally to 

 thicken the growth and preserve the shape. This may be done in April or 

 May, just before the trees start to grow. 



TRAINING THE QUINCE. 



The New York Tribune quotes the method of E. W. Cornell, a successful 

 grower of quinces, from an article in the Dutchess Farmer. We use the whole 

 article, as in no previous number of the Portfolio has this matter been treated: 



As the quince is liable to attacks of the borer, I grow it in tree form, thus 

 having but one trunk to keep clear of the enemy; besides, it is more easily 

 kept in proper form and is much more satisfactory every way, trained in the 

 form of a sturdy little tree, with bearing wood throughout all its branches, than 

 the scraggy bush as it is generally grown, with vigorous growth at the extremi- 

 ties, and scantily supplied with bearing wood. 



I usually take a good yearling or two-years-old plant, and if it has been 

 grown in bush form with several shoots, I cut out all but the best one, which 

 I choose for the future tree, and also cut this back to within four inches of the 

 ground at the time of planting in the orchard, and from time to time rub off all 

 shoots, which by fall, may attain to a height of five feet and to a diameter of 

 half to three-fourths of an inch, with side branches from the ground up, which 

 I leave on the first year to strengthen the trunk, as each branch upon the 

 stem by the elaboration of the sap through the functions of the leaves, sends 

 down an additional layer of woody fiber, like a bandage arouud the trunk from 

 its point of connection to the ground, which gives a strong body at the base 

 and tapering toward the top — a very important matter in the forming of a tree, 

 which is generally overlooked. 



At the fall pruning I cut back to within two or three feet of the ground for 

 the forming of the top, which should be low to shelter the trunk from the sun, 

 and also shorten the side branches or cut them away entirely, according as the 

 plants be strong or weak. If slender I leave the side branches on until August 

 of the second year, as a short, stout trunk is essential to insure a healthy pro- 

 ductive tree. In the spring of the second year I choose three shoots at the top 

 on opposite sides for forming the head, rubbing out all shoots that may start 

 other than these. At the second fall pruning I cut these back one-half their 

 length, and the following spring choose two shoots from opposite sides of the 

 three prongs and one at the top of each for a leader, and at the end of the third 

 year we have the structure or skeleton of a perfect tree, with strong trunk and 

 branching top of nine vigorous arms for tlie support of the fruit branches. 



Hitherto the sole object of the pruning has been for the forming of the tree; 

 hereafter it will be for the purpose of supplying fruit-bearing branches througH- 

 out all portions of the tree and the proper maintenance of the same, while 

 increase in its dimensions will be steadily maintained. Luxuriant growth must 

 be kept in check as its energies are now to be applied to the production of 



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