January i, 1884.] 



THE TROPICAL AGRICULTURIST. 



52s 



and but for its liability to adulteration would probably 

 be more worthy of it than it is supposed to be. It is, 

 however, even in the cnudition in which it is offered, 

 an effective subttauce, especially for domestic use, and 

 may be frequently used for gardening purposes, es- 

 pecially in the destruoion of aphides, to which it may 

 be applied either a,t a di-y powder, or mixed in water 

 and laid on with a syringe, as may be most euiiable 

 or convenient. Thi; powder, which is merely the 

 flowers of Pyrethrum rost-um grouud to dust, might 

 be grown and prepared by anyoue, now that the se-id can 

 be obtained in the ccluay ; and we trust the experi- 

 ment will be tried, as there appears a great probibility 

 that its virtues may be brought out to the full in this 

 climate. The flower-heads are gathered when fully ex- 

 panded, dried in the shade, and finely pvlverised. Aj 

 the powder soon loses its properties when exposed to 

 the air, it requires to be immediately packed in air- 

 tight vessels. Its wants of permanency is, of course, 

 a draw-back, for if applied to the irsects on a ;part. 

 icular plant it will destroy them, but has no effect 

 on any others that may alight on the plant half an 

 hour after the application ; neither does it iiroduce 

 ra'ich effect except on those with whicli it comes in 

 actual contact ; nor any upon the eggs or pupK of in- 

 sects. It is also harmless to man aud other of Are 

 higher animals, as well as to plants. It may be also 

 used in fumigation, as it burns freely, giving off 

 much smoke, which suffices to kill or paralyse flies 

 or mosquitoes in a room, and is likewise efficacious in 

 the case of furs, feathers, herbaria, or in greenhouses; 

 and when used in that way pulverisiitiou would not 

 be necessary. An alcoholic extract may be also made, 

 and is useful for application to insect infested plants 

 in houses. The powder is, however, of no service in 

 the case of hard ehelled insects, as beetle?, soile in- 

 sects, or hairy caterp liars. — Leadrr. 



THE CULTIVATION OF FERNS AXD LYCOPODS. 



As fern cultivation is becoming general with all 

 who aim to make their homes attractive, the f jIIow- 

 ing paper upon the subject, read by Mr. P. Somer. 

 ville at the S. A. Cxardeners' Mutual Improvement 

 Society, will be of service to many of our readers. 



"In laying before the members of the Gardeners' 

 Mutual Improvement Society a few remarks on the 

 cultivation of ferns and lycopode it is not my intention 

 to give a scientific description. It is no wonder that 

 witliiu the last fifteen or twenty years such a love 

 for ferns has taken place. Flowering plants were at 

 one time all the rage, but plant houses could not 

 always be kept in bloom, aud so, by degrees, n desire 

 for something different set in, and, as all are aware, 

 ferns came in for a large share of patronage. I think 

 their presence is as necessary to embellish the flower 

 stands as it is indispensable in a well made up 

 bouquet. Although ferns often succeed well in a mixed 

 cuUeetion of plants, there is no doubt to have them 

 in perfeciion, like orchids, they require houses specially 

 for themselves, and more particularly in such a climate 

 as that of South Australia, as there is nothing more 

 destructive to their tender fronds than hot winds aud 

 high temperature. Ferns are naturally reproduced by 

 spores, ai d I think on this point it is necessary to 

 give extra jiromiuence, as it seems to me not to be so 

 well understood as it ought to be so well understood 

 as it ought to be. There is just one remark I have 

 to make with regard to the difference between a spore 

 and a seed. The seed is the body from which the 

 young plant springs, and so is a spore ; but in the 

 seed the root comes from a fixed spot ; in the spore it 

 does not. The part of the spore which is downmost 

 produce? the roots, and that which is uppermost pro. 

 duces the stem; and, as it has bjeu said, it is as easy 

 to find out the eud of a circle as to find out tho spot 



of a spore where the root springs from. When the 

 spore germinates it produces what is called a thallus, 

 and at one time it was thought and believed that 

 the thallus was analogous to the cotyledons of dycotil- 

 edonous plants ; but recent investiijatious prove the 

 fallacy of this belief, and show that it is after the 

 thallus is produced that fertilisation takes place. But 

 I must refer you to books for full information on this 

 point. Evei'y one seems to have his own way iu 

 saving and sowing the spores, but I shall simply de- 

 scribe the way I have found them succeed best. Now, 

 the first thing is to get the spores in proper condition. 

 The majority of jjeople are too long in gathering them, 

 and what they suppose to be the ' nice brown ripe 

 spores' are very frequently nothing but the cases 

 which contained them, and are just the same as if a 

 farmer would let the grain drop, then gather and sow 

 the chaff. I thought it advisable to bi'iug specimens 

 to illustrate what i have been saying, and submit them 

 for your e.xamination. When I consider ihe spores are 

 ready for gathering (aud a little observatiou will soon 

 make anvoue acquainted with the time), I lake off so 

 much of the frond as I want, and wrap it up iu a 

 piece of paper and put it in a dry plav;e for a few days. 

 On opening the paper again tlie fr.iud will be partly 

 sh.ivelled, and tho spores lying in tho paper lu the 

 shape of the finest dust. But before uoiug this, if 

 you intend sowing them, have the pots prepared, and 

 I certainly would advise the sowing as soon after the 

 spores are collected as possible. I am (I dare say you 

 all are) partial to fresh seed of any kind. Now about 

 preparing the pots for sowing the spores. We are 

 generally told to crork the pots well, till up with some 

 rough stuff, placing some Jine sifted soil on the top, 

 and, to crown all, stand tbeiu iu saucers of water, 

 cover with glass or bell glasses, &c., &c. Now, if 

 you have a nice close pit flat iu the roof and sunk 

 in the grouud a little, no such maiiijjulation will be 

 required. Have some peaty soil, such as we get iu the 

 gullies, chop np a little of it, taliing out any of the 

 long grassy roots. The only sieve I use is a vsry 

 fine one to get riil of the fine particles of the soil. 

 It is not necessary to put crocks in the pots; simply 

 till them up to within half an inch of the rim, giving 

 the pots a few taps oa the bench, and fjennily press- 

 ing the soil down. The only bit of trouble I go to 

 is to dip the pot, soil and all, into some scalding 

 water. This destroys all seeds, aud any spores of 

 native ferus which may have been iu the soil ; and 

 I think it has another effect— namely, swelling out 

 the small dried pieces of peat, and so forming a suit- 

 able bed for the spores to geruiinate on. As you are 

 anxious now to get your spores sown, water the soil 

 with cold water through a tine ro-e ; and, if tho soil 

 is of the right description, the water will p«sa through 

 it as fast aa you pour it on. Take the paper which 

 contains the spores, and carefully shake it over the 

 pot ; rub the frond between your finger aud thume 

 over the pot also, and the operation is complete. Staub 

 the pots in a shady place, and in three weeks maud 

 of the varieties will be showing themselves. Of course 

 the soil must not on any account be allowed to get 

 dry. When I see it getting dry I generally dip tho 

 pots in water. I consider autumn the best time to 

 sow— the soil can be kept iu much better condition, 

 and the young plants grow strooger. When ouce the 

 soil begins to get covered with the thailus of the 

 future plants, it is well to 'prick' them off mto pots 

 or pans prepared as for the spores. With a sharp, 

 pointed stick lift them out, and distribute them over 

 the surface of the soil, pressing them gently with the 

 hand so as to make them adhere to the .soil. These 

 must 1)6 kept very close and shaded for a few days, 

 until they get established in their new quartei-s. Some 

 little time will elapse before they are ready pot- 

 ting, and I think it is better to let them have a little 



