On Cookery in general. 141 



query with some ; but not so with our intelligent querist. Let 

 us take the definition from the French, with whom it originated : 

 " La gastronomie est la connaisance raisonnee de tout ce qui a 

 rapport a Phomme, en tout ce qu'ii se nourrit." Such is the 

 importance given to this art in France, that it is proposed to- 

 erect an " Academie des Gastronomes" The minister who 

 accomplishes this will be, amongst ministers, what Henry IV. 

 was amongst kings, •' et son eloge sera dans toutes les bouches. ,y 



Taste used to be a metaphor to express that judgment, which 

 each man formed to himself, of things not contained in any 

 rules, or admitting of demonstration. Since gastronomy arose, 

 however, this metaphorical 'sense of the word seems to be 

 lost sight of; and it is now only used to express the sensation 

 of the palate, or, according to Johnson's definition, " it is the 

 act of tasting" — " gustation. " A French professeur has 

 written two volumes of Scientific Meditations on " Phisiologie 

 duGout;" and taking this view of it, says, " Le gout, est 

 celui de nos sens, qui nous met en relation avec les corps 

 Sapides, au moyen de, la sensation qu'ils causent dans Por- 

 gane destine a les apprecier." 



The right of judging and tasting for one's self, which is a 

 natural privilege of man, seems in this age to have been sur- 

 rendered to M. Ude, and no man can now expect to be 

 received into good society, who does not eat according to the 

 laws of gastronomy. He would be a bold man who should 

 venture to avow his love for good old English fare, or who 

 would not give up eating what he likes, to appear to under- 

 stand what he does not like : 



" Not for himself he sees, or hears, or eats, 

 " Artists must chuse his pictures, music, meats." — Pope. 

 The frugal meal was formerly the time for unbending the 

 mind, by cheerful and improving conversation, and the u Table 

 Talk" of Selden and others has been thought worthy of 

 being transmitted to posterity. But now, gastronomy occu- 

 pies the whole of our thoughts and conversation j our atten- 

 tion is directed to the critical examination of compound dishes, 

 and should any interesting subject arise, it is put an end to 

 by the ecstatic interjections of ,c excellent ! exquisite ! deli- 

 cious ! pray taste this ! pray taste that !" 



