On Cookery in general. 145 



what is now considered a most important science. It is very 

 true, Sir Theodore Mayerne and Dr. Lister had both written 

 " deOpsoniis;" but it was Sir John Hill who composed the 

 grand code of Mrs. Glasse, which edified our grandmothers, 

 and Dr. Hunter who enlightened the world with " Culina," 

 to whom we are indebted for first introducing what Montaigne 

 designates " la science de la gueule." But even now, if we 

 believe our author, we are in a barbarous state of simplicity : 

 " Quel etrange pays! vingt religions, et qu'une sauce! 

 Melted butter and anchovies, melted butter and capers, melted 

 butter and parsley, melted butter and eggs, and melted butter 

 for ever !" 



Guy Patin said that the French hated the English " parce 

 qu'ils versoient du beurre fondu sur leur veau roti," — and here 

 we find Mr. Ude's national antipathy breaking forth. His 

 sneer at melted butter and the Lord Mayor's coach is an affront 

 to the Court of Aldermen. He is almost in as great a rage as 

 the French gentleman, who, when some melted butter was spilt 

 on his silk coat, exclaimed, " Sacre ! these English feed on 

 nothing but blood and butter!" Very different was the mode 

 in which Lord John Townshend received a similar salute. He 

 was accidentally at dinner with an intimate friend, where, 

 amongst other servants, the coachman waited at table. In 

 lifting a butter-boat, honest John spilt a considerable part of its 

 contents over his lordship's clothes ; whilst they were assidu- 

 ously wiping it off, " John," said he, with great good nature, 

 <£ you should never grease any thing bnt your wheels." 



We must now notice the chapter which treats u on the im- 

 puted ill effects of cookery on the health ;" by far the most 

 jjujuante part of the work. Here he dips deep into the " stock- 

 pot" of knowledge ; quotes Galen and Hippocrates, makes a 

 fiery attack on the doctors, and we think is rather saucy to the 

 ladies, whom he considers as the most powerful antagonists to 

 cookery. The doctors, from time immemorial, have been 

 declared enemies of his class ; but let the College look about 

 them, Ude has put on his war-boots, and threatens to eman- 

 cipate mankind from the despotic dominion of medicine. 

 " Fuge omnes medicos, atque omnimoda medicamenta." — 

 u Venite ad me, qui stomacho laboratis, et ego restaurabo 



JULY— SEPT., 1829. L 



