General Scouting Outdoors 225 



this on the ground and nail two of the boards to it, one on 

 each side (b). 



At a point about 7 feet from the bow, put in a temporary- 

 cross piece 3f ft. long (c), which can have the ends either 

 plumb, or spreading wider toward the top. 



Around this, bend the two side boards till their stern 

 ends are but 3 ft. apart. Nail on an end piece (d e) to hold 

 them there. 



Now cut a strip of i x 2 in. stuff, and nail it inside 

 along the lower edge of the side board, so as to give a double 

 thickness on which to nail the bottom. 



Turn the boat upside down and nail on the tongue and 

 groove stuff to form the bottom. 



Now, turn her over, remove the shaping board, put 

 in the necessary stern and mid seats (see dotted lines), 

 nail on a piece of board to double the thickness where 

 the rowlocks are needed — each about 1 2 inches abaft the 

 mid seat, add rowlocks, and the carpenter work is done. 



Tar all the seams, caulking any that are gaping, and 

 when the tar has set, paint her inside and out. As soon as 

 this is dry, she is ready for the water. 



She may leak a Httle at first, but the swelling of the wood 

 has a tendency to close the seams. 



This is the simplest form of boat. Great improvement 

 can be made by making the sides deeper, and cutting the 

 lower edge so that the bottom rises at bow and stern, also 

 by setting the stem or bow-post at an angle, and finally by 

 adding a keel. 



If you cannot get a 15-in. board, use two or more narrow 

 ones. Their joints can be made tight by caulking. 



A DUGOUT CANOE 



Basswood, tulip wood, and white pine were the favorite 

 woods for a dugout canoe, though no one made one when 



