KERGUELEX S LAND. 187 



except at its very base, by a chasm, and perforated so as to form 

 an arch. Above the high cliffs on the south side of the harbour, 

 towers up a huge and imposing mass of black-looking rock with 

 perpendicular faces ; this overhanging somewhat towards the 

 harbour from the weathering out of soft strata beneath it, looks 

 as if it might fall some day and fill the upper part of the harbour. 

 On the north side rises a flat-topped rocky mass 1,215 feet in 

 height, called Table Mountain. 



At the head of the harbour is a sandy beach and small 

 stretch of flat land, as exists at the heads of all the fjords, and 

 beyond this the land rises in a series of steps, separated by short 

 cliffs towards the bases of Table Mountain and the great rock 

 on the south. 



The appearance of the whole is extremely grand, and the 

 marked contrast between the blackness of the rocks and the 

 bright yellow green of the rank vegetation clothing all the lower 

 region of the land, so characteristic of the appearance of all 

 these so-called Antarctic Islands, renders the general effect in fine 

 weather, most beautiful. I landed on the morning of the 7th of 

 January at the head of the harbour, with a large party, all eager 

 to kill a Fur Seal ; as the boat grounded on the black volcanic 

 sand, some greyish brown forms were made out, lying amongst 

 the grass just above the beach. A rush w r as made to the spot, 

 but they were found to be only four Sea Elephants, reclining 

 beside a small stream which runs down here from a little lake 

 on a small plateau above, into the sea. 



The Elephants, w T hen stirred up, raised their heads and put on 

 their usual savage expression which they exhibit when disturbed, 

 which is effected by contracting the facial muscles about the 

 nose, so as to throw it into a series of very prominent transverse 

 folds. They opened their mouths, showed their teeth and 

 uttered a roar, which consists of a series of quickly succeeding 

 deep guttural explosions. They bit savagely at a stick, and 

 twisted it out of our hands, but made no attempt to go to sea, 

 making on the contrary into the stream, and up it inland, 

 moving by the regular flop flop motion of the body, like that of 

 the common British seal, but more clumsily performed. 



"Whilst everyone was either looking at these Elephants, or 



