486 A NATURALIST ON THE " CHALLENGER." 



all alike in being entirely built of wood and. paper. The par- 

 tition walls are all of light lath lattices, fitted as sliding panels 

 and covered with a tough tissue paper. Even these walls, such 

 as they are, often do not reach up as high as the ceiling, so that 

 everything that goes on or is said over the whole range of rooms 

 upon each floor is plainly heard. 



If care is not used, one is apt in stretching oneself at night 

 to push a hand or finger through the wall into the next room. 

 A square of paper and some rice starch put matters all right 

 again, however. One must always take off one's boots in going 

 into a Japanese house, and at theatres and restaurants they are 

 ticketed, and a check is given for them as for umbrellas and 

 coats with us. 



The hotel was on the side of a range of hills overlooking the 

 capital. Kioto, the Holy City of Japan, is by far the most 

 beautiful city I have ever seen when thus viewed from the 

 overhanging hills. Everywhere are groves of Cryptomerias 

 surrounding the holy places and monasteries, and above the 

 groves in all directions rise the high temple-roofs and porches. 



A great exhibition was going on at the time of our visit. It 

 was amusing in going round this to see the tables completely 

 turned upon the English. One of the exhibits consisted of a 

 couple of rooms with one side removed to show the interior. 

 One of the rooms was fitted up as an English bed-room, and the 

 other as a drawing-room, both completely furnished. These 

 were very popular sights. The Japanese are intensely fond of 

 strange sights, and when the English first settled at Yokohama 

 long journeys were made to look at them and their houses and 

 to watch their strange habits, and guide-books were published for 

 the use of the sight-seers, in which all articles of furniture, all 

 implements and utensils and articles of dress of the Englishmen 

 were figured. 



Early every morning in Kioto there is a tremendous clanging 

 and booming of bells from the monasteries, mingled with beating 

 of gongs, to call the monks to matins, and arouse Buddha 

 and Kanon to listen to their prayers. There is a big gong in 

 front of every shrine with a large heavy cord in front of it. 

 As each private worshipper arrives he swings the rope and 



