CHEESE. 155 
23 to 29 per cent of casein (proteid), from 30 to 40 per cent of fat, 
and from 3 to 5 per cent of mineral salts ; its savoury residuum 
is very small. Cheshire Cheese is very similar, but contains 
more sugar of milk. The common Dutch Cheese, as supplied 
by our grocers, is a small, hard, round Cheese made from skimmed 
milk, and coloured outside with madder. It contains from 19 
to 24 per cent of casein, and only from 16 to 24 per cent of fat, 
with from 5 to 6 per cent of sugar of milk. But in Holland the 
Dutch, or “ Cottage” Cheese, is a preparation of pressed curds, 
prepared with muriatic acid instead of rennet, and served with 
salt, or with sugar, and cream; this is “‘smeer-kaas,” pot-cheese. 
In the Dutch and Factory Cheeses, curdled thus with acid instead 
of rennet, the highly important and essential earth-salt, phosphate 
of lime, is left behind dissolved in the whey, and thus the food 
value of these Cheeses is seriously lowered. Phosphates of the 
earth-salts are concerned in bone-making for the growing subject, 
also to some extent in building up the brain, and nervous sub- 
stance in the body, though not so vitally in the latter respect 
as is commonly supposed. Bone contains about 11 per cent of 
phosphorus, but brain substance less than 1 per cent. The 
phosphate of lime which is supplied by Cheese made with rennet, 
is probably in a condition of such fine division, that it can be 
readily dissolved by the gastric juice in the stomach. For a 
dish in which there is a true cooking of Cheese by solution, and 
with an admirable result, grate six ounces of rich Cheese 
(Parmesan is the best), put it into an enamelled saucepan, with 
a teaspoonful of flour of mustard, a saltspoonful of white pepper, 
a grating of Cayenne, the sixth part of a nutmeg (grated), two 
ounces of butter, two tablespoonfuls of baked flour, and a gill 
of new milk; stir it over a slow fire till it becomes like thick, 
smooth cream (but it must not boil); add the well-beaten yolks 
of six eggs; beat for ten minutes, then add the whites of the 
eggs also beaten to a stiff froth; put the mixture into a tin, 
or into a cardboard mould, and bake in a quick oven for twenty 
minutes ; serve immediately. : 
Stilton Cheese has been made until lately almost always in 
Leicestershire, being a solid, rich, white English production, 
the cream of one day being added to the entire milk of the next ; 
then the curd is put into moulds, and allowed to sink of itself, 
no pressure whatever being applied. Other kinds, such as 
Cheddar, are subjected to a pressure of as much as one ton, or 
