COFFEE AND CHIGORY. 193 
be secured, and pass the liquor through a filter. Then take 
double the bulk of sugar (clarified, and boiled till smooth), boil 
this to crack, and add the infusion ; allow the mixture to simmer, 
then take it off the fire, and put it when lukewarm into bottles. 
This Coffee syrup is a convenient beverage for travellers. If 
two teaspoonfuls are put into a cup, and boiling water is poured 
on, good Coffee can be thus quickly made. Sugar mixed with 
Coffee draws forth all its aroma; and if mixed with Café au lait 
it gives a light, agreeable, easily-made food which admirably 
suits those persons who must work at the desk immediately 
after breakfast. The Turks, who are superior to all others in 
Coffee-making, do not use a mill for grinding the berries: they 
break the Coffee up in wooden mortars with wooden pestles, and 
when these have been for a long time in family use they become 
saturated with fine aromas, being therefore valuable, and 
commanding high prices. The undoubted opinion of experts 
is that Coffee made with the pounded berry is better than that 
made with ground berries. With respect whereto a singular 
example may be given of the influence which this or that manner 
of manipulating can make to a food-substance: “Sir!” said 
Napoleon one day to Senator Laplace, “ how is it that a glass 
of water in which I melt a piece of loaf sugar appears to me to 
taste better than that in which I put the same quantity of ground 
sugar?” ‘‘ Sire,” said the savant, “there are three substances 
of which the elementary constituents are exactly the same— 
that is to say, sugar, gum, and starch; they differ only by 
certain conditions, the nature of which has not been revealed 
to us; and I believe that it is possible the force exercised by 
the pestle causes certain portions of the sugar to pass into the 
states of gum, or starch, and occasions the difference of flavours 
to which you refer.” This fact is fairly well established, later 
observations having confirmed the opinion of Laplace. 
Brillat Savarin says that “ having tried all the customary 
methods for making infusion of Coffee, he came to the conclusion 
that the process known as “( la Dubelloy” is the best. This 
consists in pouring boiling water on the ground Coffee, put into 
a porcelain, or silver vase pierced with very small holes. The 
first decoction is taken, heated again to boiling, and passed 
through the Coffee anew, when a beverage as clear, and as good 
as possible is obtained. cee 
Persons who can take Coffee in the evening, or at night, 
13 
