GAME. 315 
preserved the proud consciousness of his divine origin. Par 
excellence the grey English Partridge is the best for eating, there 
being also a red-legged variety which has culinary excellence. 
“The young birds that are taken even as they be readie to fly, 
and are afterwards fattened, prove the best, for they make a pure, 
and excellent nourishment; they are only hurtful to countrymen, 
because they breed in them the asthmatick passion, which is a 
short, and painful fetching of breath: by reason whereof these 
will not be able to undergoe their usuall labours. Wherefore 
when they shall chance to meet with a covie of young partridges, 
they were much better to bestow them upon such for whom they 
are convenient, than to adventure (notwithstanding their strong 
stomackes) the eating of them, seeing that there is in their flesh 
such a hidden and perilous antipathie unto their bodies.” Says 
Mr. George Saintsbury, in Fur and Feather Series, ‘‘ my private 
conviction is that the best thing you can do with a Partridge, 
provided he be an honest grey Partridge of British nationality 
(and the only one which a true gourmand would ever admit to his 
table), is to roast him in front of the fire, and serve him hot; 
furthermore to eat what is left cold of him next morning for 
breakfast, with no other condiment but salt, and a little cayenne 
pepper. For a plain roast the English grey Partridge, young, 
and plump, has no rival, and can be put to no better use than 
roasted plain, being served with such accompaniments as you 
may please of bread sauce, brown bread crumbs, or fried potatoes. 
Partridge with celery sauce is helpful in cookery for invalids ; 
again, Partridge pudding is a capital dish, thoroughly English ; 
it is thought to have been invented by the South Saxons, having 
its origin in the region of Ashdown Forest. “‘ Phick, draw, and 
singe a brace of well-hung partridges. Cut them into neat joints, 
and if they are not very young take off the skin first.’” Line a 
quart pudding basin with a good suet crust, half an inch thick, 
and in trimming it off leave an inch above the edge. Lay a thin 
slice of rump steak at the bottom of the pudding, then put in the 
pieces of partridge: season with pepper and salt; and pour over 
them a quarter of a pint of good brown gravy. Roll out the cover, 
lay it on the pudding, moisten the edge, and press over it the inch 
that was left round the rim. Wring a pudding-cloth out of 
hot water, flour it well and tie it securely over the pudding, then 
plunge this into boiling water and keep it fast boiling all the time 
it ison the fire. As soon as it is taken off, cut a small round out of 
