GAME. 317 
times it was the custom, we are told, about Italy and Venice to 
employ a scalco, who had the honour and life of his master in 
his hands; his life, because it was then not uncommon to put 
poison into the food of enemies in politics, or rivals in love: so 
that the cook held in those days a most important, and vital 
position, when great persons lived in constant fear of being done 
to death by poisoned meals. Equally important is it now-a-days 
that an authorised inspection of perishable food-commodities 
shall be the duty of competent disinterested officials, whenever 
they may think proper, for the welfare, and safety of a com- 
munity. 
For boiled partridge, or pigeon, “ Clean, and season the bird : 
enclose it in a puff paste, and boil. Serve in its own gravy, 
supplemented by the liver rubbed up with some stock: and do 
not forget the bread-sauce. To make this latter, take the 
crumbs of a French roll, of water half a pint, black pepper six to 
eight corns, a small piece of onion, and salt to taste. Boil all 
smooth, then add a piece of butter about as big as a walnut, and 
mix for use. It is good hot with hot birds, cold with cold birds, 
and is an excellent food for the sick.” Likewise, roast partridge, 
with sauerkraut (fermented cabbage), is declared by some to be 
the perfection of game food. 
Our English Partridge was pronounced in the new London 
Dispensatory, “ Excellent food for a weak stomach : its liver 
dried and drunk helps the epilepsie ; its marrow and brain cure 
the jaundice ; its gall is one of the most eminent things for defects 
of the eyes in the world, helping suffusions, and dimness of sight ; 
its broth is of use against the French venereal disease.” 
The Pheasant, originally from the banks of the Grecian river 
Phasis, is nowhere met with in a wild state, but requires the 
continued assistance of man for its preservation, and breeding. 
This bird has the faculty, when properly matured for cooking, 
or, as the French say, when properly mortified, ot proving tender, 
short, and easily digested : for which reasons it is liked by aged, 
and delicate persons. : 
‘“* The pheasant,” tells Brillat Savarin, ‘is a riddle of which 
the solution is revealed only to adepts! Every substance has 
its apogee of excellence, which the pheasant attains only when 
it begins to decompose. This state it does not reach in less than 
three days after its death, requiring sometimes several more. 
If eaten within three days it has no distinguishing flavour. Just 
