318 MEALS MEDICINAL. 
when it begins to decompose, the aroma develops, and is the 
result of an oil which needs a little fermentation to bring out its 
perfume, just as the oil of coffee is obtained only by roasting. 
The bird should not be plucked till such a moment, and then larded 
carefully with the freshest and firmest bacon. When the proper 
time for this has arrived it will be indicated by a slight odour, 
and by a change of colour in the breast of the bird. It is a 
matter of importance not to pluck the pheasant too soon. Ex- 
perience has shown that birds kept in the feather are much more 
highly flavoured than those which have been plucked, and then 
hung for some time ; whether it be that contact of the flesh with 
the air neutralises some portion of the aroma, or that a part of 
the juices which nourish the feathers becomes absorbed by the 
flesh. When the bird has been duly prepared it must be properly 
stuffed. Then cut a slice of bread four inches longer than the 
pheasant, and toast it. Next take the liver and entrails, grind 
them up with two big truffles, in anchovy, with a little chopped 
bacon, and a suitably-sized piece of good fresh butter. Spread 
this equally on the toast, and place the pheasant in the middle. 
When it is sufficiently cooked serve it on the toast, surrounding 
it there with bitter oranges; and be tranquil as to the result. 
These highly-flavoured dishes should be accompanied preferably 
with a first-class Burgundy.” ‘‘ A pheasant prepared after the 
above fashion is worthy of being set before angels, if they are 
still travelling about the earth as in the time of Lot.’ “For 
sweetnesse and pleasantnesse of taste the pheasant excelleth 
all other fowle: verily for goodness, and pleasantnesse of fiesh 
it may of all sylvestriall fowle well challenge the first place at 
tables, for it giveth a most perfect and temperate nourishment 
to them that be healthy. And to the weak, sickly, or that be 
upon a recovery unto health, there is not so profitable a flesh, 
for it is very delightsome to a weak stomache ; and quickly by 
treason of the pure and restorative nourishment which it giveth 
it repaireth weake, and feeble strengths.”” Thus declared 
“‘ Tobias Venner (1620), doctor of physicke, at Bathe in the Spring 
and Fall ; and at other times in the Burrough of North Petherton, 
neare to the ancient hauen towne of Bridgwater in Somerset.” 
Sydney Smith (1836) wrote: “ If there is a pure and elevated 
pleasure in this world, it is that of roast pheasant, and bread 
sauce ; but, “ Mangé trop frais (writes M. Sausanne), sa chair 
est jude, et moins delicat que celle du poulet.” There was a certain 
