MARMALADE. 449 
a cold plate, when, if it jellies, it is done. Put it into jars whilst 
hot, let it cool, and cover with pieces of oiled paper cut to the 
size of the jar tops. Three hours should be the time for boiling 
the quinces without the sugar, and three-quarters of an hour to 
boil the pulp with the sugar. In olden times a famous pie was 
made mainly from this fruit. The Art of Cookery (1709), relates 
how one 
‘“ Trotter, from Quince and Apples first did frame 
A pye, which still retains his proper name ; 
Though common grown, yet with white sugar strewed, 
And butter’d well, its goodness is allowed.” 
Furthermore, the Quince had a former reputation for curing 
“ Ye toothache, if it proceeds from heate,”’ as “ a certain remedy.” 
Inthe Arcana Fairfaxiana (1695), we may read: “Take two or 
three Plantain leaves, cut them smalle with a knife, and putt 
them in a little piece of linninge cloathe, and straine 2 droppes of 
quince into ye partie’s contrary eare, and before you can tell to 
20, ye cure is done.’ The seeds of a Quince (some sixty within 
each fruit) swell out when soaked in water, and develop a demul- 
cent mucilage which contains salts of lime. Quince wine is 
sometimes made, which has an astringent effect in chronic 
diarrheea. This fruit is almost entirely free from acid. An 
alter-taste suggestive of garlic, is left on the palate by the 
Marmalade, or by Quince syrup. 
Another Marmalade, that of Apricots, is useful for subduing the 
nausea of a stomach qualmish through nervous indigestion. Take 
four pounds of sound ripe Apricots, with two and a half pounds 
of sugar; stone the fruit, and put it into a pan with a sufficient 
quantity of water, and boil it up a few times: throw it intoa 
sieve to drain it, then pulp it in the colander, and throw the pulp, 
the sugar, and a few of the kernels (blanched) from the broken 
stones, into a preserving pan. Cook the whole, whilst constantly 
stirring it with a wooden spoon. When the mixture has reached 
the consistency of jelly, or when the mass boils in such a manner 
that you can see the bottom of the pan, take the marmalade off 
the fire and put it into pots. If thoroughly mpe Apricots are 
used, it is not necessary to cook them in any water. They are fra- 
grant because of their perfumed skin, and somewhat laxative 
when eaten freely. At Cairo a luscious paste is made from the 
plentiful fruit, with which almond kernels are incorporated. — 
Gerarde told that “‘ the Marmalad, or Cotiniat, made of quinces, 
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