SAUCES, 623 
explains the importance of a proper Sauce as a lubricating 
principle, demonstrating this by an experiment upon potatoes, 
cooked first with a Sauce, and then without it. ‘“‘ The Sauce 
served to smooth the morsel for passage along the digestive 
canal, and stimulated an increased flow of saliva, thus augmenting 
the juices for solution of the potato, whilst also improving the 
appetite.” Several of the most familiar Sauces in common 
culinary use have definite objects in view, to be effected by their 
respective special qualities ; such as Mint Sauce with lamb, Apple 
Sauce with goose, Bread Sauce with fowl, or game, Fennel Sauce 
with mackerel, Egg Sauce with salt fish, and various other 
Sauces. Mint “ stirring up the appetite for meat,” which makes 
this so general in our acid Sauces, said Pliny ; whilst the vinegar 
dissolves the young albumin; apples being laxative with rich 
flesh of domesticated birds, or pork; bread furnishing bodily 
warmth, and fat with lean flesh of fowl; fennel “ consuming 
the flegmatick quality of fish” ; and eggs being the complement 
of innutritious salted Lenten fare; whilst horse-radish, again, 
is a digestive spicy antiseptic Sauce with fatty roast beef; and 
Soy corrects the possible ptomaines of salmon. 
What is known as Mayonnaise Sauce (a corruption of Magnon- 
aise), which is an emulsion of egg-yolk with olive oil, serves by its 
condimentary vinegar to aid in dissolving the albumin of cold 
viands, from which the natural digestive volatile spices have 
now evaporated. For half a pint of this Sauce, put one raw 
yolk of an egg into a basin, with a pinch of salt, and of white 
pepper; also a saltspoonful respectively of English, and of 
French mustard, with just a dust of Cayenne; mix this com- 
bination with some of the best salad oil, drop by drop, using 
a wooden spoon; when it is as thick as butter, add a teaspoonful 
of Taragon vinegar, and eight or ten drops of lemon-juice. 
Pepys has noted in his Diary on December 2nd, 1660: “ Lord’s- 
day : home to dinner ; my wife, and I all alone to a leg of mutton, 
the Sauce of which being made sweet I was angry at it, and eat 
none, but only dined upon the marrow-bone that we had beside.” 
What is called by trans-Atlantic locution “ Apple Sass” is a 
jam-like compound of apples boiled down with sugar, and 
potted by thrifty American housewives, to be used for the open 
tarts which are so popular in New England. Dr. Doran tells 
about an eccentric dinner on record, which consisted entirely 
and exclusively of Sauces, but without conferring any adequate 
