328 TRANSACTIONS OF THE HORTICULTURAL 



top-working ; and so will also some of the Siberians, and between 

 these two races there is no variety of our native sorts but what 

 may be properly mated with some congenial stock. By this 

 means, namely double-working, we practically do away with the 

 *'dead line" — if I may use that term — or that belt on half-hardy 

 trees between one and two or three feet above the ground, where 

 the severest injury is always located; and thus, trees are grown, 

 which do possess the hardiest constitution attainable by any 

 given variety. 



An essential adjunct to an orchard is a good windbreak on the 

 south and west, partly to protect the trees against ex- 

 cessive cold wind-storms, but especially to prevent the fruit from 

 being blown off by the strong southwest winds of our summer 

 months. Norway Spruce and White Pine being the most desirable 

 trees to plant for this purpose. These may be planted in single 

 rows, with trees eight or ten feet apart, or in double or triple 

 rows eight to twelve feet apart, with trees at same distances in 

 the rows, planted in break-joint style. Belts of trees on the 

 north and east sides of an orchard are not to be recommended, 

 as they would do more harm than good by holding the heat gen- 

 erated by the sun's rays too closely about the trees. 



For the orchard site, select, if possible, some elevated and 

 naturally well drained location, but avoid barren hillsides or 

 gravel knolls. Any good corn land will answer. If not naturally 

 well drained, it should be underdrained with tile to the depth of 

 at least four feet. A northern slope is preferable to a southern 

 one, for obvious reasons. Thorough preparation of the ground 

 by deep plowing and thorough harrowing is essential. Level 

 lands should, by repeated plowings, be thrown into ridges, upon 

 which the trees should be planted. Distance between trees, two 

 rods ; time to plant, spring. 



In digging — no matter how carefully done — trees loose a por- 

 tion of their roots, a fact which deranges the balance that exist- 

 ed in the structure of the tree. This balance should be restored 

 I>y judicious pruning as follows: Cut away all forked or close- 

 growing, upright branches and leave but one central upright 

 shoot for the leader; cut this leader back to five or six inches 

 from its base ; and select three or four branches — not too close 

 together — to form a well balanced head, and cut these a few 

 inches lower than the leader and remove all other useless twigs. 

 Trees without branches will form good, well balanced tops if 

 headed back to about five feet above the ground. (In subsequent 

 prunings, for three or four years after planting, always remove 

 the forks and prune towards securing an open, well rounded, 

 symmetrical head, by shortening disproportionally tall and strag- 

 gling shoots and ingrowing twigs.) Make all cuts smooth and 

 close. Never leave any stubs. Cut all bruised and broken roots 

 back to sound wood from below, so the cut surfaces may rest up- 



