SOCIETY OF NORTHERN ILLINOIS. 329 



on the ground. The new roots issuing from these cut surfaces 

 will at once grow downward and anchor the tree firmly in the 

 ground. 



Plant carefully, in holes large enough and deep enough to per- 

 mit every root to be straightened out in its natural position. Set 

 the tree not over two inches deeper than it stood in nursery. Work 

 finest surface soil among the roots and when the hole is even full, 

 press the loose soil firmly down with the foot ; and if the soil be 

 rather dry pour one or two pails of water in the depression thus 

 made. Let this water soak away, and allow the ground to settle 

 naturally and then fill up a little above the level. Do not omit 

 to lean the stem of your tree at an angle of about fifteen degrees 

 towards the south-south-west, to brace against the prevailing 

 winds, and as a prevention against sun-scald. 



Cultivate corn among the young trees for five or six years after 

 planting, then seed to clover, which should not be removed, but 

 be left on the ground as a mulch. Never permit a dense grass 

 sod to take possession of your orchard, for this would mean star- 

 vation to your trees. The grass would absorb most, if not all of 

 the moisture yielded by the summer showers, leaving the deeper 

 lying tree roots without nourishment. Trees cannot mature a 

 a crop of fruit and retain their vigor in such a condition. Pro- 

 tect the stems of your trees against rabbits, mice and borers by 

 wrapping them with burlap, wrapping paper or screen wire, 

 which would also protect them against sun-scald. Destroy 

 noxious insects by spraying with Paris Green or London Purple, 

 and on this point consult carefully the reports of experiments 

 which you will find in the Transactions of this Society. 



Do not forget to keep up the fertility of the soil by an oc- 

 casional top dressing of well rotted barn yard manure and wood 

 ashes — if these be available. When you notice that your trees, 

 after coming into bearing, make a smaller annual growth than nine 

 to twelve inches in the main shoots, you may know that they re- 

 quire extra care and the restoration of their waning vigor. 



After bearing several crops of fruit — and sometimes even be- 

 fore this — you will notice more or less stunted, half-dead or dead 

 twigs and branches in the inside of the heads of your trees. To 

 retain these worthless branches is a severe drain upon the vitality 

 of trees. Prune these out during mild weather, from November 

 till March, when the wood is not frozen. Avoid cutting off large 

 limbs. A light annual pruning, as advised already, will avoid the 

 necessity of removing large branches. Wounds, over one inch 

 in diameter, should be covered with shellac or oil paint after the 

 surface has become seasoned by contact with the air, say one or 

 two weeks after pruning. 



Old trees, which are still fairly sound, but have grown too tall 

 to admit of their fruits being gathered with comfort or economy, 

 may be headed back and renewed at an accessible height. Time 



