ON THE COOKING OF FISH. 233 



worst fish that swims, the most bony and apparently- 

 inedible of fish, contains nourishing properties to a 

 large extent : for example, they may be made into most 

 excellent and palatable soup, if flavoured according to 

 taste, with very, very little trouble or expense indeed. 

 Having boiled a huge mass of cod's head, or a turbot, 

 we, as soon as possible, throw the liquor down the 

 sink ; whereas if that liquor were used again, when 

 cool the second time, it would be a strong jelly. The 

 skins and membranes of fish, for the most part, con- 

 tain the strongest of gelatine. Isinglass, which pro- 

 duces even a stronger jelly and more nourishment 

 than gelatine, is but a preparation of the sound of 

 the sturgeon and other fish; and isinglass is given, 

 much as cod-liver oil is, not only as a nourishing, 

 but further as a strengthening food. 



We do not throw away any portion of beef and 

 mutton because it is coarse, tough, and flavourless; it is 

 too expensive for that. We call it gravy or stock-meat, 

 and we extract its juices by boiling ; and why should 

 we condemn any fish, when the coarsest and most 

 flavourless of them can be turned to the best account 

 also, by being used in a similar manner? A little 

 pepper, a little salt, a dash of vinegar, and a sprig 

 of herbs, is all that is required to turn barbel and 

 chub into very good and enjoyable soup — not that 



