344 ILLINOIS STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



for pleasure and profit, and there is far more of both in good crops, so 

 that we have plenty to use and some to spare, if they are not standards of 

 excellence. 



I am not prepared to recommend any variety for general planting, as 

 each locality appears to have fruits peculiarly adapted to it, which, 

 removed a few miles, are almost valueless. There a very few varieties of 

 fruit that do well over a wide range of territory, and a few others do bet- 

 ter by emigrating. 



When we are ready to set or plant or orchard, let us go to our neigh- 

 bors who have orchards (if any such) and find which sorts have done 

 best for them; or go to our nearest nursery-man, tell him what we want, 

 whether the orchard is intended for market or home use, and he can gen- 

 erally make a better selection that we can make ourselves, unless we are well 

 acquainted with the fruit in our locality. Let the fancy lists, published here 

 and there, alone. I would rather have the advice of one practical fruitgrower 

 than all the lists ever published. I would not recommend any certain age for 

 trees at the time of setting, as I have seen good orchards from trees that 

 were of different ages — from two to ten years old when set, and as perfect 

 failures as possible from all trees of those different ages — so much depends 

 upon location and after-culture. I prefer root-grafted trees for apple 

 orchards, as they are as good in bearing as budded trees, and possess the 

 advantage of uniform trunks, which add to the beauty of an orchard. 



Get trees with one central stem, instead of forked or crotched trees, 

 so that the head of the trees can be raised if desired ; start with a low 

 head, as the trunks of the trees need shading, and nothing does this better 

 than its limbs. Thousands of trees are lost annually by their trunks being 

 exposed to the sun. Reject all tall, slim trees, as of necessity their trunks 

 will be exposed to the sun, and will soon become diseased — food for 

 borers and worms — and then disappear. Much has been said about high 

 and low heads, so much so that I will pass it by. 



Young orchards should be well cultivated for several years after 

 setting, or until they commence bearing well. It were better if the 

 ground be not cropped, for the orchard is crop enough ; yet, to insure 

 better cultivation, by most persons it will be necessary to allow some hoed 

 crop each year, provided as much, or more, is returned every year in shape 

 of manures. By no means plant the orchard in grass ground, or sow small 

 grain among the trees ; the orchard may be seeded to grass after it has 

 attained age, and is bearing well ; but we must be liberal to our orchards 

 if we wish them to be liberal to us. They should be manured every year, 

 and with a liberal hand. 



The Scale aphides, or bark-lice, were very troublesome a few years 

 ago, and apple trees were much injured by them, more especially old 

 orchards, and those in grass ground ; they are disappearing, however, 

 being destroyed by a parasite, and at present cause no anxiety. The 

 borer is only troublesome where the trunks of trees are exposed to the 

 sun. Shading artificially, or by means of low-headed trees, is the best 

 remedy. The codling-moth troubles us more at present than all other 

 insects combined, and until we are rid of them they will take a large 



