nomadic desert people. These two groups depended 

 upon one another through trade of their traditional 

 crafts. With the introduction of the oil industry and mod- 

 ern technology, handcrafted products are being re- 

 placed by mass-produced items of plastic and alumi- 

 num. The tradition of brightly colored, elaborately pat- 

 terned objects that have offset the austerity of the 

 desert for generations is vanishing. 



Topham's collection includes a rare and educa- 

 tional look at many of the "lost" crafts of Saudi Arabia. A 

 large desert tent woven from goat hair greets visitors as 

 they enter the exhibit. The tent is partitioned into three 

 sections by woven panels, replicating the manner in 

 which it would have been set up in the Saudi Arabian 

 desert. Sections include the men's area, a center 

 sleeping area, and the utility area. While a typical Be- 

 douin tent would be sparsely equipped because of the 

 transient lifestyle of its inhabitants, this tent serves as a 

 showcase for many of the collection pieces. 



The strength of Topham's collections lies in beau- 

 tiful textiles; weaving remains the country's dominant 

 craft. Arab weavers utilize a horizontal loom that holds 

 the yarn parallel to the ground. Woven rugs, blankets, 

 and tents incorporate geometric design patterns with 

 tassel ornamentation. Human and animal figures are 

 rarely depicted. Traditional colors in woven goods 

 include red, black, white, camel, green, blue, and 

 orange. The similarity between modern and traditional 



weaving is obscured by the brilliant, synthetic colors of 

 factory-made yarns. 



Apparel has always varied from region to region 

 in Saudi Arabia, yet certain features like the loose fit 

 that allows air to circulate is common to all. Costumes 

 on display include a variety of women's floor-length 

 dresses with long, wing-shaped sleeves. Women often 

 tie these sleeves behind their neck to keep them out of 

 the way while working. Dresses are often decorated 

 with applique and embroidered with metallic cotton, 

 silk, or rayon thread. Women are expected to covertheir 

 faces with black gauze veils and wear hoods over their 

 head while in public domain. Men's dress is similar to 

 women's, comprised chiefly of ankle-length shirts and 

 a headcloth called a ghutrah. 



Arab women are likely to wear jewelry at all times. 

 Jewelry plays an important role in courtship rituals and 

 constitutes a large portion of a bride's dowry. Neck- 

 laces, belts, bracelets, and earrings were traditionally 

 made of gold and silver combined with turquoise, coral, 

 agate, and glass. Today costume jewelry has almost 

 completely replaced work in silver and gold. 



Other pieces in the exhibit include riding accou- 

 trements displayed on a six-foot-tall wooden camel. 

 Camel bags were among Arab men's most richly 

 adorned possessions, woven from brightly dyed wool 

 and often decorated with tiers of sashes, ribbons, and 

 tassels. Traditional weapons, coffee utensils, incense 

 burners, and household crafts are also displayed. 



Photos of Saudi Arabian art by Ron Testa and June Bartlett 



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