32 FRO^f BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 



to be level, and either wooded or covered with 

 bushes. Between us and Smoky two minor 

 bluffs pointed into the sea ; but they were 

 dwarfed by the loftier cape, and served only as 

 milestones to cheer us on our way. 



After walking a mile or more we met two 

 men, who addressed us pleasantly, and turned 

 to walk with us on our way. The older of the 

 two was over eighty, and told of his far-away 

 birthplace in the Isle of Lewis. The younger, 

 a man of sixty, was very tall, and saw this 

 world through but one eye. We soon found 

 that it was his son who had been our laconic 

 charioteer the evening before, and as the talk 

 progressed it became evident that Big Rory, as 

 this canny man is called from Baddeck to Cape 

 North, was not in favor of our walking over 

 Smoky, when his horse and wagon could be 

 earning more American dollars by carrying us. 

 We withstood his arguments, however, and en- 

 joyed his flow of genial and intelligent conver- 

 sation. I felt sure that had Cape Breton been 

 called upon to take an active or courageous part 

 in this world's doings while Big Rory was 

 young, he would have been a power in her life. 

 True, he is that in a way now, politically ; but 

 provincial politics are so lacking in all that is 

 pure, patriotic, or intelligent that neither Big 

 Rory nor any other strong man has much 



