HOME OF THE EMPRESS JOSEPHINE. 307 



face, black hair and evidences of an abundant beard 

 in reserve. As he came in he cast an anxious glance 

 at the neatly-spread table, where one plate, one bottle 

 of wine, and bread and napkin for one, plainly indi- 

 cated that the cure did not expect visitors, — and then 

 at the sideboard, where was a dish heaped with fruit, 

 and another bottle of wine ; and then a smile spread 

 over his countenance, and he advanced to meet me. 

 After a few compliments — for I saw the w r orthy cure 

 was unhappy about something — I handed him the 

 letter, which stated substantially that I wished per- 

 mission to photograph the church, and desired a 

 glimpse of the ancient registers, and recommended 

 me to his good offices. As he read, there appeared 

 upon his face a multitudinous smile. He assured me 

 that most certainly I could photograph the church, 

 that it would give him actual pain if I did not, etc. ; 

 then ensued a painful pause. My friend had told 

 him that I could find no place in which to sleep, 

 which he had not apparently heard, or, rather, con- 

 cluded that it mattered not to a naturalist, who could 

 probably sleep anywhere, like a bat, hanging up by 

 his toes. 



Meanwhile, a savory odor came in from the kitchen. 

 It was pretty evident that soup was ready and being 

 kept in waiting over the coals ; that the mutton even 

 was ready to be served, and the fish swimming in its 

 sauce. The cure's nostrils dilated, while a look of 

 sadness stole over his face. My friend then suir^ested 

 that I had ordered dinner at the baker's ; after discuss- 

 ing which, my only thought was for a couch, a rug, 

 a floor — anything, so I had shelter from the even- 

 ing damp. The cure's face brightened, then clouded 



