34^ 



CAMPS IN THE CARIBBEES. 



snorts, like those of a high-pressure steamer, and vol- 

 umes of vapor blown in our faces. Following this, I 

 found an aperture in a mound of stones, sulphur-lined, 

 only a few inches in diameter, through which was 

 forced a column of steam with noises so loud that we 

 could not hear each other speak. This aperture is in 

 the center of a desolate area, having on its borders 

 numerous openings, whence issue blasts of hot air 

 that taint the atmosphere for many feet around. I 

 peered into one, arched like an oven, and it was like 

 a glimpse into the arcana of nature, — into the min- 

 iature palace of a genie, — for the whole interior was 

 encrusted with sulphur crystals glistening like yellow 

 topaz ; and a small black passage led down into un- 

 known depths, whence issued rumblings, groans, and 

 grumblings. Up from this black throat came such 

 blasts of old Vulcan's fetid breath, that I was glad to 

 escape with only a few crumbling crystals for my 

 pains. Ravines seam the sides of the cone in every 

 direction, some spanned by natural bridges of rock ; 

 but that to which I constantly recurred was that cen- 

 tral gorge, with its wicked-looking throat, from which 

 there have been two eruptions recorded — one in 1797, 

 the other in 1815. Doubtless it will again, at some 

 future time, act as the vent for the internal ebullitions 

 of mother earth. 



According to Humboldt, the summit is over five 

 thousand feet above the sea, and the view afforded 

 me, as an occasional rift occurred in the masses of 

 mist, was grand beyond description. Climbing to an 

 elevated rock, I obtained shelter from the terrific gale 

 that nearly swept me off my feet, and awaited a break 

 in the cloud of mist. It came : I looked upon a scene 



