216 THE PLANT WORLD 



General," as they called General Wheeler, evidently thinking that his 

 office corresponded to that held by the Governor, or Captain General, of 

 the Philippines under the Spanish Government. At Merizo we were 

 received with even greater demonstrations of good will, and were enter- 

 tained by the citizens with a fine dinner. It was dark when we reached 

 Inalahan. The citizens had gone to the northward to meet us, expect- 

 ing us to come by way of Pago and Talofofo. When we were discovered 

 coming from the opposite direction the bells started ringing and guns 

 were fired. The people flocked to us and the little son of the native 

 gobernadorcillo, Juan Napute, marched by General Wheeler's side, play- 

 ing the accordeon. Both Napute and his little boy are fine types of 

 natives. I think that they are perhaps more like the primitive Chamorros 

 than any other citizens of the island. General Wheeler seemed deeply 

 touched by the fervent expressions of loyalty and friendship on the part 

 of these good people, so different, he said, from what he had found in 

 the Philippines. We were taken to the best house of the village, and 

 after enjoying a good supper were about to go to bed. General Wheeler 

 must have been tired, but he gave no evidence of it. When he was half 

 undressed a knock came at the door and a citizen said some of the ladies 

 of the place, hearing that we were to leave at a very early hour the next 

 morning, begged to pay their respects to the Captain General. I inter- 

 preted the message to the General, and suggested that he was probably 

 too tired to receive them. But he replied : ' ' No, indeed ; ask the ladies 

 to wait a moment, and I will dress." So he put on his boots once more, 

 adjusted his uniform, and received the visitors with the grace and courtesy 

 which characterized his bearing during our entire trip. He seemed never 

 to tire nor to be vexed by mishaps. On informing our callers that we 

 would be glad to see the people of Inalahan the following morning, they 

 took leave, and we were soon asleep on comfortable beds, between fresh, 

 snow-white sheets. 



Saturday, Febrjtary 10. — Up early, after a refreshing sleep. General 

 Wheeler held quite a reception. Nearly all the people of Inalahan came 

 to pay their respects, including the ladies ; and Doiia Filomena de Torres, 

 the school mistress, made quite a pretty speech. 



After a good breakfast we started across the Island for Apra, accom- 

 panied b}^ six of the citizens, who formed a voluntary escort. Though 

 it rained at intervals throughout the forenoon and the General must have 

 been wet to the skin, he never once lost his equanimity. I think he is 

 the most cheerful man with whom I have ever traveled. During our 

 trip we stopped from time to time to drink from green coconuts. Coco- 

 nut water is very refreshing and quite wholesome as long as the nuts are 

 green. As they grow riper the water thickens and becomes milky. It 

 is then no longer fit to drink, as it tends to cause inflammation of the kidneys 



