In the Santa Clara. 263 



California has but two worthy of consideration. These are the great bays 

 of Scin Francisco and San Diego. It is hard to conceive of any mor3 beau 

 tiful and safe waters for them that go down to the sea in ships. That of San 

 Francisco is manj' times the larger; but the San Diego haven is so smooth 

 and deep and sunny, and even capacious, as to invite all wayfarers of the 

 deep to anchorage in its waters. 



Here, then, is Oakland; but for the present we concern not ourselves 

 with her, pressing on to the metropolis. Your train strikes the waters of the 

 bay. You run out on the stone causeway and pier till you reach the wharf, 

 with its depot and station of the great ferry-boats. As you piss up into the 

 waiting-rooms and make your exit for the boat you may casually behold 

 some of the most stunning advertisements which the genius of man has j'et 

 devisrd. San Francisco would have you, at the very threshold, to under- 

 stand that she has her enterprises and her valuables. You walk around to 

 the prow of the Oakland deck, and the bay stretches before you. To the 

 left it reaches to the horizon ; to the right you see, in the harbor, Goat Island 

 and Alcatraz ; across yonder, there she is : 



" She looks a sea-Cybele fresh from ocean, 

 Eisiug with her tiara of proud towers 

 At airy distance with majestic motion, 

 A ruler of the waters and their powers." 



CHAPTER IV. 



IN THE SANTA CLARA. 



At San Francisco.— Reception by the Board of Trade.—Glimpse of Santa Clara 

 Valley — Spanish Names. — Hispanio- Mexican Element in Society. — At San 

 Jose. — The Citrus Fair. — Fruits and Other Products. — California Jealousies. — 

 A Work of Art. — Sketches of San Jose. — B mquet to the Society. — The Local 

 Excursion. — Views of the Santa Clara Orchards. — Suburban Civilities. — Pros- 

 pective Tours. — Dotvn to Monterey. — Typical California Orchard. — A Criti- 

 cism. — The Live Oaks. — Trees for the Hightvay.— Monterey Bay. — Hotel del 

 Monte. — Historical Places. — Cypress Point. — The Cypresses. — Sublimity of the 

 Coast. — Sealdom. — Shells. — To Santa Crus. — Sketches of Shore and City. — 

 The Return. — Rediwods En Route. — Lick Observatory. — Oakland Reception. — 

 ^ The Banquet and Excursion. — The University. — Professor Hilgard's Work. — 

 Metropolis Again. — The Palace. 



The passage across the Bay of San Francisco requires half an hour. 

 Landing on the other side, you are stunned with the vociferations and clamor 

 of the cabmen and hotel-runners ; but, with all their noise, they stand in 

 rows, and do not take you by violence. Outside you enter the commodious 



