336 Beyond the Sicrran. 



ticism. I neglected to say that the whole theory of Mumboism.aa practiced 

 by these Chineae, is merely the notion of advantage. The estimate of their 

 gods is based on the idea of their usefulness. The most devout worshipers 

 in the joss-house are the gamblers, who, almost every morning, may be 

 found there, taking counsel of Mumbo as to whether they shall or shall not 

 speculate on that day. 



Turning to tiic industrial aspect of Chinatown, I was gratified to note 

 the excellence and artistic finish of nearly all their work. Their skill is 

 something to be astonished at. Never otherwhere will you see such wood 

 engraving as in these little shops and stall.s. 1 watched one old artisan, 

 fairly rickety with age, grasping a blaile like a shoemaker's knife in his right 

 hand and cutting away at some Chinese types. The pieces were about the 

 size of ordinary dice, and the skill and accuracy of his cutting surprised me 

 beyond measure. I suppose he was making five or ten cents a day. I ran 

 the imminent risk of small-pox by taking in the Chinese quarter of the city. 

 But all's well that ends well : I saw ihe sights, and the small-pox has not 

 yet claimed its victim. 



The happy climate of San Francisco puts her people much out of doors. 

 Even in midwinter they throng the streets and sally forth into the park. I 

 insist that the boulevards and arena (jf Gulden Gate Park are, of a sunny 

 afternoon, as brilliant a scene as may be witnessed anywhere outside of the 

 Bois de Boulogne at Paris. In the evening the city is brilliantly lighted. 

 Electric burners fling their clear radiance through the air, and the streets, 

 with their gay throngs j)ouring out of the opera-houses, flash in the sun- 

 shine. San Franci.sco goes late to bed : and I should nol be surprised if she 

 sometimes wakes up with the headache. 



I repeat the expression of regret that my visit to the Pacific coast and 

 to this metropolis of California is here and now cut short. I can not stay 

 any longer. I must catch a few hasty greetings and frirewells with my friends 

 at the Palace, and be ready for the morning train. Fur many weeks this, 

 to me, new panorama of nature and of life has been passing before me ; but 

 the backward tug of duty and alFection, stretching so far beyond the mount- 

 ains, must now i>revail over the natural wish to stay longer and see more 

 along this margin of the Pacific. 



One must needs take home with him from the transmontane regions 

 something in the way of souvenirs. Nothing pleases me so much as the 

 brilliant shells, and pearl goods manufactured therefrom, which may be plen- 

 tifully gathered at almost any point on the coast, but particularly at the great 

 manufactory of R. W. Jackson, of G14 .Market street. Here you may find 

 the most beautiful specimens of laminated pearl and delicate fabrics made 

 therefrom. Across the way the Japanese bazaar will also contribute to your 

 store. But if any man thinks that I am advertising these shops, let him be 

 disabused. It is very wrong, my fellow mortal, for you to suppose that 1 

 would do such a thing I I merely say that I gathered my trunks full of these 

 beautiful wares, antl on the early morning of the 19th of February made my 



