REPORT ON THE TRUN1NG OF FOREST TREES. 47 



quires, is the proper treatment for the majority of hardwood trees. 

 By pointing or shortening the branches, the current of sap is cut 

 off from the branch shortened, and diverted into the trunk, while, 

 at the same time, the number of laterals and amount of foliage 

 are increased, and both combined are the balancing power of the 

 tree. The principal guide in pointing is to keep the symmetrical 

 appearance of the plant in view, and allow the branches to be 

 developed as much as possible in regular order, so that they may 

 distribute the life fluid to all its parts in just proportion. It 

 must be borne in mind that we are pruning for quality as well 

 as bulk of timber ; for if by such means we increase the growth 

 beyond nature, we may add to the quantity at the expense of the 

 quality of the w T ood. But where a tree is well stocked with proper 

 branches and an abundance of leaves, the formation and maturing 

 of the wood will be carried on equally. To gain this important 

 end, then, it is necessary to perform the operation of pointing 

 when the plants are young, and within the compass of handling 

 with the pocket-knife. Wherever a straggling branch appears, 

 or one competing with the leader, it should be pointed at once, 

 and its direct communication with the main stern and leader 

 broken. If the cut is made close beside a lateral on the branch, 

 fewer branches will spring ; but if a few inches beyond, fresh 

 eyes will make their appearance, and assist in covering the tree 

 with additional foliage. When growing timber is thus treated, the 

 lower shoots after a time begin to lose their wonted vigour (unless 

 when planted in the open park or lawn, where the trees have a 

 greater amount of air, in which case they make splendid speci- 

 mens) ; and, as already mentioned, after standing for fifteen or 

 twenty years, such branches may be gradually taken off. By 

 that time we may conclude the trees have arrived at maturity, 

 when they require less attention. 



In close pruning it is of consequence that a clean cut be made, 

 and close to, but so as not to interfere with, the main stem or 

 bole. When neatly performed, the process of healing over is 

 more rapid, and there is less risk of an unsightly scar being left, 

 than when the work is done clumsily and by making a ragged 

 wound. If the directions above given be strictly followed, there 

 can be no large branches to cut off; and when the clearing of the 

 stem of the lower shoots is proceeded with, if done with the most 

 ordinary care, no check or injury can be given to the tree, or 

 blemish left by their amputation. 



The season most suitable for pruning is the early spring 

 months, although we ought to be guided more by the weather 

 than by any definitely fixed period of time. In general, however, 

 the heavy end of the frost is over by the month of January, and 

 in such seasons the work may be commenced, when about six 

 weeks may be relied on as safe for continuing it. I am averse 



