326 Transactions op the 



a better idea of what we want to secure by the first Summer's growth. 

 It is really a dwarf grape tree which we want to secure — with a body 

 of good, sound, and smooth growth — standing erect, at least to the hight 

 we wish our future vines to grow. This object, it is evident, can be best 

 attained by throwing all the strength and growth of the young vine 

 into this one cane or body. 



If more than one bud starts from the cutting, the upper end of which 

 should always be covered at least an inch with soil, let them all grow only 

 till you can see which throws out the strongest shoot, and in the best 

 position for the future body. Then pinch all the weaker shoots off, and 

 keep them so pinched off during the first Summer, thus throwing the 

 entire strength of the vine into the remaining shoot. Keep this shoot 

 erect or perpendicular by carefully tying it to a stake set in the ground 

 for that purpose. The string or cord used should be soft and of good 

 size, so that it will not cut or injure the tender cane. Of course the soil 

 should be well cultivated, often, during the first Spring and Summer, so 

 as to prevent the growth of weeds and to secure the best growth of the 

 vine. But care should be had not to continue the growth so late in the 

 Fall as to endanger the tender growth to be cut by the first frost at its 

 extreme end. 



THE SECOND YEAR. 



If a good stand or body has been secured the first year, the principal 

 object to be attained the second year is to keep that body erect and give 

 it as great a growth as possible. It should therefore be cut back to the 

 desired hight soon after the leaves have fallen, in the Fall — generally in 

 this State in November — but the locality and season must govern as to 

 this. If any lateral branches have grown below the point at which it is 

 desired to form the head of the tree, they should now be carefully and 

 smoothly cut off with a sharp knife, and all dormant buds below that 

 point should also be removed. As to the proper hight to make the head 

 of the tree there is some difference of opinion, but we would recommend 

 that it should not be over eighteen and not less than ten inches above 

 the ground. The principal reason in favor of low- pruning is, that in the 

 latter part of the Summer, when the grapes are. growing most rapidly 

 and approaching maturity, the thermometer shows that the atmosphere 

 at from six to twelve inches above the ground is from six to eight 

 degrees warmer, both at night and in the daytime, than it is from four 

 to six feet above, and that the grape will grow more rapidly, ripen 

 earlier, and be sweeter and better. 



Another reason is that the grape near the ground is not so likely to 

 mildew. The head of the tree should be so formed as to balance, as 

 near as may be; consequently, at least two shoots, on opposite sides, 

 should be allowed to grow the second year, and no Summer pruning 

 should be practiced this year, unless it be a little pinching in — if it be 

 necessary to secure that balance of growth. 



Form a good, smooth, and perpendicular body and a well balanced 

 and symmetrical top or head, and you have done all that is necessary for 

 the second year. A vineyard thus formed will alwaj's be a matter of 

 pride and mental satisfaction to its owner, and the future care and labor 

 in attending it will be much lighter than if the vines were allowed to 

 lean this way and that. Then, too, vines erect and symmetrical can 

 hold up, unassisted by props, a much larger weight of fruit, and they 

 will be able to bear and mature them much better without injury. 



