State Agricultural Society. 491 



be marked with small sticks. The holes should be dug at least two and 

 a half to three feet each way, and be filled in with the richest mellow 

 top-soil, and whenever practicable, it is well to use a lasting compost 

 of broken bones, gypsum, or lime, spread in the bottom of the holes. 

 Distance between the vines: for strong growing varieties, seven by eight 

 feet, or eight by eight, is necessary; though for vines of slender growth 

 five by six, or six by six, will answer. It is my experience that after 

 ten or twelve years the vines require all, even the largest space. If 

 the soil can be enriched from year to year by liberal manuring, the 

 vines may be planted closer, thus gaining somewhat in the quantity of 

 fruit, but with greater inconvenience in after culture, and also probable 

 deterioration in quality. It is claimed by many that in poor soils the 

 vines should be planted closer; but it certainly seems evident that in 

 such soil the vine requires a larger space to secure food, just as a 

 bullock would on a scanty pasture, provided it is not designed to exhaust 

 the soil in the shortest time. 



Some difference of opinion prevails regarding the choice of cuttings or 

 of rooted vines for stocking a vineyard. If the growth of a cutting 

 could be always secured, it should be preferred, as the first roots striko 

 out regularly, the root end of the cutting heals over smoothly, and it 

 makes a healthier and thriftier vine; but some soils are naturally too 

 dry; some years the rainfall is scanty; in others the ground cannot be 

 put in condition until late in the season, and under such circumstances 

 one-year rooted cuttings, carefully lifted and set, insure a better stand. 

 Older vines are objectionable, as they get more or less injured in trans- 

 planting. Cuttings fifteen to eighteen inches long are desirable. In 

 dry, sandy soils, long cuttings do best; in moist and heavy, short ones. 

 Having selected a location, prepare the soil, determine the most profit- 

 able use to be made of the fruit, and accordingly the variety of grapes, 

 secure cuttings from healthy, thrifty, growing vines, with the butt ends 

 smoothly cut close to a bud, and having kept them in moist earth from 

 the time they were pruned off, we begin planting as early as the season 

 and circumstances may permit. If the planting must be delayed, or if 

 the cuttings have not been preserved in a perfectly moist state, they 

 should, for several days previous to planting, be placed in bundles in 

 some running water, but with only the lower half immersed. Success 

 in rooting cuttings depends upon ample moisture and the compact 

 pressing of the soil around the cut eud; a pint of water to a cutting will 

 often determine its growth. After the holes are half filled in as pre- 

 viously stated, the operation of planting proceeds rapidly; if rooted 

 vines are used the filling-in of the hole is modified in a manner securing 

 the proper spread of the roots. A line is then stretched along the row, 

 the spaces measured with a pole, say twelve or fourteen feet in length, 

 a dibble hole made in the exact spot, the cutting inserted in it perpen- 

 dicularly, the earth pressed closely around it and watered, the hole filled 

 up even with the ground, covering slightly the topmost bud; a small 

 stake is then placed to mark the spot, and our vineyard is started. The 

 first season but one shoot is allowed to grow, and that tied to a stake 

 and the end nipped off to eighteen or twenty inches, and thus a stock}' 

 growth is at once maintained. Second year the vine is cut to two eyes, 

 to secure against accident, the dry top is pared off neatly, and after the 

 ground is plowed and hoed the weakest shoot and all suckers are taken 

 off and the other is tied up, and when neccessary, pinched-in to main- 

 tain a hight of about two feet. Excepting the Isabella and kindred 

 varieties, all grapevines do best here when trimmed low, even trailing 



