104 TRA^^SACTIONS OF THE ILLINOIS 



These new pear rootlets, in soils repeatedly stirred, -will grow with great rapidity. 

 Trees from the nursery should be well supplied with branches from near the ground 

 to the top. Cut these all oif the stem to the heighth of twelve or fifteen inches, 

 from this point to where the heads of the tree branch; at it leave branches once in 

 about three inches and on different sides of the stem ; cut each of these back to one or 

 two buds. As growth begins, each of these buds will develop shoots or branches; as 

 soon as these are grown to the length of eight or ten inches, the ends should be 

 pinched off, to prevent them from running off with too much of the forces of the tree. 

 Should some one of the branches selected to form the head of the tree, be likely to 

 run off with too much of the gTowth, then it must be checked by pinching; otherwise 

 allow all to grow to the end of the season. 



Second year. In pruning, the second 3' ear, cut back the branches on the stem to 

 one and two buds each, and as soon as the shoots from these are eight or ten inches 

 long, pinch, as directed in the first year. If any of the branches intended to form the 

 future head of the tree, become too long and straggling, or are likely to become 

 naked, cut them back to some bud, a branch from which Avill point in the right 

 direction. 



During the summer, if any of the young growth becomes too vigorous, cut it out, 

 if not wanted, or check the growth by pinching. 



Third year . This year, treat the branches on the stems as directed in the second 

 year. By the end of the third season the trees will have straight, tapering stems or 

 trunks, which will be strong enough to support the tops without bending. ItwiU, 

 therefore, be necessary to cut away all the side branches on the trunks below it. In 

 the fourth year, all the branch and leaf growth wiU be confined to the head of the 

 tree. This may cause an excess of young shoots; these must be rubbed oiit as they 

 appear, and any excess of growth controlled by pinching, as before mentioned. Trees 

 after growing four years in the orchard, ought to be large enough to begin to bear 

 fruit. At this age they will most likely require to be put in a condition to resist 

 blight. This will be effected by shortening the roots in the way before described. 



Pruning the roots vsdU have the efiect to cause the tree in the following year to 

 change a vast number of leaf into fruit buds; these buds will be so perfectly formed 

 that nearly all of them may be depended on for fruit, therefore it will be well to prune 

 away so many of them as are not wanted for fruit — also so much of the top 

 growth as will give a perfectly formed head, and cause full exposure of the growth 

 which is left to the hght and air. The amount of pruning to be done will vai-y greatly ; 

 some varieties will need to have half or more of the young growth cut away, while 

 some sorts, as Howell, Beurre d' Anjou, Beurre d" Amahs, and some others, may 

 have their branches spread or tied apart AAdthout pruning. Heads of trees, kept 

 spread apart a few days during the growing season, will ever after maintain that 

 position. 



Pear trees, which are kept systematically root pruned, will make but httie annual 

 growth, and hence, after the heads of the trees are once properly formed, they will 

 requii-e but little annual pruning. This after pruning will consist mainly in remo-^ing 

 such supei-fluous branches as may appear, and from time to time thinning out any 

 excess of short branches, or fruit spurs, as they are sometimes caUed, as will leave no 

 more than are needed to produce fruit. 

 Old trees on quince stocks may be Upped on several sides of their trunks^ much in 



