176 Wisconsin State Horticultural Society. 



■will eat tons of them if you let them alone. T never saw a person 

 that could be cloyed with grapes that some of these high-caste ag- 

 riculturists east say are not fit to be eaten. I never saw a man 

 cloyed with the Concord grape. 



Mr. Hofer — It is a good plan to let them lay on the ground as 

 long as they don't sprout, and you can do that if you don't spur or 

 bow them; but if you want to do this, you have to do it before the 

 buds grow. I don't see much benefit in winding them around the 

 pole; you bring them too high, so that the grapes grow too high in 

 the air. I raise them all within two feet of the ground. It is not 

 material if you believe that bleeding will hurt them. You believe 

 it does. I do not. If y(5u cut yours in the fall, you are just as 

 well off as I am. I cut mine in the fall, too, because I do not need 

 as much covering to protect them from the cold of winter. As 

 soon as ^the new growth starts they cease bleeding. It all goes 

 into the new sprout. They only bleed until they sprout, but if you 

 leave the cutting until the new growth commences, you hurt the 

 new sprouts. After they begin to grow once, they must be pro- 

 tected on the pole and tied on. 



Mr. Plumb — I have prepared a synopsis, at Mr. Hofer's sug- 

 gestion, which will perhaps answer a good many questions, and 

 condense the the thing. 



He prefers the southwest slope, because there is the most dew, 

 thare is the warmest air, and the least frost. He prefers a red clay 

 soil, with gravel or rocky soil mixed in. 



Plant early sorts in fall or early spring. 



Strong roots and canes are necessary to success. 



Dropping is from want of root power. 



He would have single poles and annual renewal; cutting or prun- 

 ing the annual in fall or spring. 



Bleeding does not injure them. 



The first year let one or two canes grow from the ground, to be 

 carried up the pole. Keep off all laterals and rub off all suckers, as 

 they appear. 



The second or third year, spur or bow the last year's canes for 

 fruiting, and allow the first two buds to grow for renewal as before, 

 carding them up the pole without laterals. Allow no laterals, and 

 but one leaf on the fruiting cane at each bud, until past the fruit; 

 keep down all suckers, as before, and allow no shoot to grow that 

 is not needed for present fruiting or renewal. 



