Addresses — Plant Development and Training. 223 



tions. Plant carefully, cultivate thoroughly, and renew often. 

 One year, or two, from the root-graft, according to growth, I would 

 cut back to where I wanted the head to form; nurse the branches 

 that come out below the heading back as much as possible; never 

 allow crotches to form, and prune to keep the head as compact as 

 possible. 



Currants and gooseberries 1 would plant on rich soil, and give 

 them compost manure under them besides. Never train them into 

 tree form. As soon as they cease to bear full crops of large fruit, 

 root them out, and plant again. All the pruning necessary is to 

 take out old wood. The first four or five crops are the profit- 

 able ones. 



Strawberries I would never allow to make runners, whatever the 

 variety. It costs too much to keep them clean, and for picking the 

 berries. I want but two crops before renewal. It is true, here 

 we are going constantly against nature, but the short life we give 

 the stools fully justifies the means. 



Raspberries I would top at a height not exceeding three feet, and 

 allow the laterals to grow at will. The succeeding spring clip 

 these close enough to allow the pickers to work easily. Give the 

 same treatment to blackberries, except they may be allowed to 

 make more upward growth before cutting back. 



The system tl-at I have found most successful with grapes, is to 

 raise a good strong single cane to a height of six feet, and then 

 pinch off. After the laterals have made one bud, I pinch beyond. 

 After this bud has made another, I pinch again, and so once more, 

 and then allow it to make what growth it will beyond. It will 

 seldom be much. I cover the canes in the winter. Early in the 

 spring I uncover, allowing the vines to lie along the ground until 

 the buds show strong signs of breaking. Then tie them to single 

 stakes. I have not found it practical always to raise a cane for 

 fruiting the next year, while the vine is bearing a full crop the 

 present year. I try to keep the vines into as compact shape, and 

 as near the ground as possible, until some year when the blossoms 

 are killed, and then start anew. I could better afford to lose one 

 crop out of three or four, than to bother with old, ragged vines. 

 While the crop is growing I prune but little; simply pinch the 

 ends to keep them tolerably compact. Before covering in winter 

 they are pruned so as to leave a good quantity of bearing wood for 

 15— Hort. So. 



