10 TRANSACTIONS OF THK tLLINOIS 



either dead or dying. In tlie locality wliere 1 reside (Will County) 

 we must })lant a new orchard every fifteen to twenty years if we want 

 fruit. Most all varieties (except a few) commence bearing in about 

 six or eight years after planting, and continue about seven or eight 

 years. Avhich is aljout as long as they are profitable. A few varieties, 

 perhaps, hold out a little longer. Many years ago my theory w^as to 

 plant close, say twelve to sixteen feet apart, and when they became 

 too thick to produce fruit, cut out every other tree. I find in my 

 small orchard so planted eighteen or twenty years ago, that when 

 they were ready to cut out a large portion of them were ready for 

 the woodpile and brush heap, dead and dying. 



Selection of Trees. — The trees should be not more than two to 

 three years old. taken u]) with ]ilenty of roots, stocky, and tops well 

 formed. In regard to high or low tops there are many, opinions. 

 The tops should be formed high or low according to the variety. 

 Winesap, Yellow Bellflower and many sorts that have large, spread- 

 ing tops should have their top formed higher than those that natur- 

 ally form their tops more upright. As a general rtile would say 

 form tops from three to four or four and a half feet. 



What Varieties to Plant. — We have but few varieties that are 

 adapted to ijll sections of our State. My advice to those who are 

 going to plant, is, — examine the orchards in your locality and ascer- 

 tain what varieties do best, then go to your nearest nurserynian and 

 get your trees. The late Dr. Kennicott used to tell ns, in speaking 

 of varieties, that what was a truth in New York would be a lie in 

 Illinois. 



Cultivation. — The first year plant your orchard to sweet corn. 

 It is as good as anything, perhaps the best. It affords shade and pro- 

 tects the trees from the hot sun during the summer, which frequently 

 injures them. After that, ])lant some hoed crops, keeping the 

 ground in good condition and free from weeds by shallow cultiva- 

 tion. About the fifth year from planting sow to red clover, each 

 year mowing the clover and letting it lay on the ground for mulch. 

 Never seed your orchard to timothy or sow small grain. My orchards 

 so treated have done the best. 



Pruning. — Most everybody has a particular time to prune. I 

 do but little trimming in my orchard after two or three years from 

 planting. While the trees are young and branches small form the 

 top according to the variety and there will be but little necessity of 

 much trimming afterwards, except to take out limlis that are cross- 

 ing each other and removing the dead ones, if any. All branches 

 removed that are an inch or more in diameter, should be painted 

 over to prevent rotting and injury. Limbs should be cut off close to 

 the collar, iind l>e made perfectly smooth. As to the time of trim- 

 ming, ray practice has been to trim any time when needed, except 

 when the Avood is frozen, and on any day except Sunday. 



