STATE POMOLOGICAL SOCIETY. 9I 



sequently if, after we finished picking our crop, we cultivated 

 our raspberries and started fresh growth, the canes would not 

 ripen sufficiently. I get my strawberries as late as I can. I 

 am behind the main market of my vicinity, consequently if I 

 tried to get my crop in market early I would get my earliest 

 berries in with their main crop and I would be left no profit. 

 Consequently I keep my berries as late as I can, keeping my 

 mulch on as late in the spring as I can, but not too late or they 

 will burn and heat. You should watch them. I keep them back 

 as long as I can and then I get my main crop in as the other 

 people get the last of theirs in, and the market is mine. 



I stop cultivating my raspberries as soon as they begin to 

 ripen, and let the weeds grow, and then I turn a furrow against 

 those raspberries. Perhaps that is wrong theoretically but it 

 has been very successful with me. I do the same with my 

 currants. I turn a furrow from each side right in upon my 

 raspberries and currants. It mounds them and lets the water 

 drain off between them and covers the roots in the winter. Of 

 course it exposes them between. It turns under the weeds 

 pretty well and when you hoe in the spring it leaves your rasp- 

 berry row pretty clean and easy to handle. 



Question : Do you put any fertilizer in that row ? 



Mr. Putnam : We spread stable manure through the winter 

 upon this raspberry patch as we can get in there. I was 

 down to Mr. Margeson's in Westwood, Mass., who has ten 

 acres from which he took $5000 worth of fruit. You can't get 

 in there with a horse and wagon. There are apple trees, plums, 

 cherries, and in between them currants, and every bit of fer- 

 tilizer comes in on a wheelbarrow. That is intensive small 

 fruit growing. We get the fertilizer, horse manure, on through 

 the winter. In the spring, cultivate and hoe this in between the 

 rows. It works out pretty well for us. 



You have to select hardy varieties in the blackberry and rasp- 

 berry. I use the Herbert and Cuthbert in the raspberry. I am 

 much pleased with the Herbert and confine myself to it almost 

 wholly. The Snyder is the hardiest of the varieties of the 

 blackberry, about the only one I would try to grow commer- 

 cially. Blackberries should not be nearer than eight feet apart. 

 They should be trellised in the same way as the raspberries, but 

 the posts should be higher. The cultivation of the raspberry 



