146 Agricultural Gazette of N.S.W. [Feb. 2, 1920. 



If there is one thing more than any other that the soil of Countj- Cumberland is noted 

 for, it is for its poorness. It is deficient especially in lime and potash, and when the 

 Agricultural Department a few years ago tested some 130 soils from different parts of 

 the county its capacit}- for water was put down as nil. 



There are two classes of soil in this county; that lying between Sydnej- and Penrith 

 east and west, and the Kurrajong and Picton, north and south, rest upon, and are derived 

 from Wianamatta shale. The second division, being the rest of the County of Cumber- 

 land, is derived from the Hawkesbury sandstone. Both these formations are remarkably 

 poor in constituents suitable for plant food. But although this applies generally to the 

 soils of County Cumberland, there are isolated spots, here and there, which contain richer 

 soil, for instance, at Prospect. The whole of that hill rests upon what we call blue- 

 metal and the soil is good. One vein from it runs through part of Dundas. Another 

 crops out at the boundary of Lidcombe and Auburn near Park-road (where stone was 

 obtained some years ago), and then passes through Lidcombe, where it was worked over 

 thirty years ago. This causes the soil to vary in patches. Just across Park-road, within 

 a distance of a few hundred yards from the blue-metal patch, you can see sandstone 

 above the ground. The soil there is poor and hungry. The timber which grew on the two 

 soils was quite different. Near where I am living immense logs of red and white mahogany 

 used to be cut some fifty or sixty years ago, and a man named Carter had teams, with which 

 he drew them to the river, from whence they were taken to Sydnej'. 



The soil in County Cumberland requires humus and plentv of it. A second 

 requirement is an occasional dressing of lime to sweeten it and prepare the humus for 

 the crop, bvit as our soils are deficient in organic matter, be cautious with the lime. 

 Bieak your idle land up roughlj^ and leave it to the sun and air to sweeten. 



Remember that — 



Lime and lime, without manure, 

 Makes both farm and farmer poor. 



So do not forget to keep up the humus in the soil, supplying cow or horse manure, as 

 well as lime ; otherwise you will soon find your land burnt out. 



Now, suppose a mar has come to the district, has purchased a piece of land, and intends 

 to make a home, with a vegetable and flower garden, and a few fruit trees. The land 

 is not cleared ; it has the usual scrub on it, some trees and stumps, and he has to grub 

 out the scrub by the roots and gather it up into heaps. Then he must grub out the trees 

 to at least 18 inches in depth, and any stumps must also be taken out to the same depth. 

 Having got the trees down and the stumps out, the trees can be cut up and, with the 

 stumps, drawn out of the way and stacked near the house, to be used as firewood. L'nless 

 the scrub is heavy, I would not advise burning it. but would prefer using it for draining, 

 or even burning on top of the land when ready to plant. 



The next thing is to mark out the site intended for the garden. Then find out the lowest 

 point of the site and drive in a stake for future guidance, and proceed to mark out the main 

 drain, the position of which depends on the size of the garden. If very large it should nm 

 along the centre, and the side drains should nm into it diagonally. If the area is fairly large 

 the main drain can run from the bottom to the top, on the lowest side of the ground. If 

 the garden is only small, the main drain can run across the bottom and the feeders may 

 run .'itraight into it. 



In clay subsf)ils the side-drains, or feeders, should be about 15 feet apart, and in Iram 

 they may be 20 feet apart. This will give ample drainage. 



The drains should be cut V-shape and at least 2 feet 6 inches in depth. The width of 

 the bottom, which should be flat and well graded, will vary according to the material 

 that 1.9 used to ccmstruot the drain. For field culture the drains may be open, but for 

 gardens — which we are now considering — either pipes, tiles, rubble, or saplings covered 

 with scrub are serviceable. Pipes are the best of all, and the side drains should be 2-inch 

 agricultural drain pipes; for main drains at least 3-inch pipes. Tiles are the next best 

 material; these should be half-round, and covered with flat tiles. Some use the flat 

 tile on the bottom, but it is not so good, beinir more likely to get choked. Rnblile 

 makes a good drain if covered with gravel or small stones and clay and ramuKd. The 

 brush drain is the wor.st, but if a man is not in a position to buy the other material it will 

 last a long time if well made. 



Special tools are used for draining, but unless one has a lot to do they should net be 

 purchased as they are expensive. 



If possible, start on the surface and dig a trench with a slight grade until you reach 

 the depth of the drain. Draining is more iniportant than trenching because it alkws the 



