NARRATIVE OF THE CRUISE 



213 



about five miles, may be classed as one of the most dangerous in 

 our experiences. The region is frequented by very dense fogs, 

 which pour down continuously from the slope of San Lorenzo 

 Island to the harbor. One must navigate the small ferries by 

 compass. The launch was hopelessly lost for an hour during 

 the first trip. Its captain had lost his bearings, and furthermore 

 his compass was mounted directly over the Diesel engine! The 

 second trip was made in shorter time, by Soule's reading the com- 



A Native Inn at Huancayo 

 The sign over the door proclaims that "consolation of the afflicted" is on sale by the 

 glass, bottle, or keg — chanchamayo is a liquor and chicha a native beer; the musical instru- 

 ment in the painting is the Peruvian harp. 



pass, held well away from the machinery, and by Captain Ault 

 himself giving orders to the man at the wheel. So well, in fact, 

 was the stretch navigated that they almost ran down the dry-dock 

 before they sighted it in the fog. 



While the vessel was in dry-dock the staff moved to the Hotel 

 Bolivar — a very welcome escape from the cramped quarters of 

 the cabin, and from the diet of the ship. For even the finest 

 quality of goods, and the ingenuity of a ship's cook, fail to make 

 tinned fare appetizing after a few months at sea. 



