NARRATIVE OF THE CRUISE 



219 



searched for foreign matches as we came ashore. On one occasion 

 Paul was landing for a trip to Oroya, high in the Andes. He had 

 put a few aspirin tablets into a Swedish match-box for protection 

 against the usual headache which develops as the first symptom 

 of "soroche," or mountain sickness. The customs agent, with a 

 gleam in his eye, fished the offending article from his suitcase; 

 opening it, he found matches of a new shape indeed ! Not to be 



Facade of the Ancient Jesuit Church, Arequipa 



The church was constructed in 1698 (the date shown on the tablet at the right of the 

 entrance) of the soft volcanic rock which abounds in the country around Arequipa — the 

 building is in good condition and is still in use as a church. 



fooled by this Yankee trickery, he solemnly removed one of the 

 white pellets and struck it on the side of the box! 



While up in the mountains we heard several good stories of life 

 in the "montana" region on the lower eastern slopes of the Andes. 

 Many of these had to do with the primitive Indian tribes which 

 still resent the intrusion of outsiders into their forest domain. 

 Not long ago a certain British naturalist had been sent to negoti- 



