312 THE LAST CRUISE OF THE CARNEGIE 



rarely visited by ships. The Carnegie had stopped there on a 

 previous cruise, so that we were certain of a welcome from the 

 white resident, Mr. Wilson. He was a castaway from the ship- 

 wrecked Derby Park in 1888, and he has never since left the Island. 



Once ashore we found, besides Mr. Wilson, a white merchant 

 named Wilkinson, whom we had met in Tahiti in the spring; and 

 a pearl-trader by the name of Woonton. These men at once pre- 

 pared a grand feast for us, while we rambled about the village, or 

 fished the lagoon for specimens. Our hosts regaled us with many 

 a South Sea yarn, as we sat on the verandahs drinking fresh 

 coconut-milk. 



The natives are chiefly engaged in the pearl-fishery. On bringing 

 up a good specimen, they take it to the trader, who allows a 

 withdrawal of goods from his store to the value of the gem. There 

 is no system of credit, so the lucky diver simply carries five or 

 ten bags of flour, or a few cases of canned meat, to the center of 

 the village, and invites everyone to help himself. In the long run, 

 it is fair enough to everyone, and the natives seldom lack food and 

 clothes. Of course, there is no chance for building fortunes; but 

 all through Polynesia we noted the same happy-go-lucky way of 

 living. 



Two davs later we made a similar call at Manihiki Island; 

 here the gravity-measurements were not so successful, due to the 

 swells coming in from the west. The Resident Agent, Mr. Wil- 

 liams, an old friend of a previous Carnegie cruise, gave us a hearty 

 welcome to his charming island empire. This atoll offered a 

 striking contrast to Penrhyn. Immaculate coral paths divided 

 the neat little houses and flower-gardens into "blocks." The 

 natives were well dressed; the coconut-palms were properly spaced 

 and pruned for maximum production. Everywhere were evi- 

 dences of a fatherly care on the part of old Mr. Williams. To 

 the Carnegie this Island is chiefly remembered for its character- 

 istic dance. On a previous cruise photographs and moving pic- 

 tures of this unique performance were destroyed by an accident 

 in developing. And we were fated to lose ours for another reason. 



In the afternoon, Mr. Williams rounded up the villagers in the 

 large white building that serves for town-hall, post-office, and 



