NARRATIVE OF THE CRUISE 319 



Each guest is served in turn from a common coconut-shell, 

 the chief indicating whose turn it is by singing in a high-pitched 

 voice a complimentary description of the guest, if his name is 

 unknown. When one's name is called, it is customary to clap 

 the hands, so that the serving-maid may know to whom the kava 

 is to be served. The coconut-shell is held over the kava-bowl, 

 while the taupo half-fills it with beverage wrung from the switch. 



With a long-low, sweeping gesture, the drink is presented to 

 the guest, who takes it at a gulp. A trace must be left in the 

 bottom which he spills on the pebbles outside to rinse the shell 

 for the next man. And so around the circle, guests being served 

 strictly according to rank. The drink itself has an insipid flavor 

 which is hard to describe. It is a pearly grey color and leaves a 

 refreshing though faintly peppery taste in the mouth. It is said 

 that the taste was far better in the old days when the root was 

 first thoroughly chewed by the "taupo" before being macerated 

 in water. 



The party now dispersed over the village, while the natives pre- 

 pared the grand feast — to be served in true Samoan style. There 

 were games of basket-ball, boxing-matches, and other sports to 

 amuse us ; but many of the party were more interested in watching 

 the old women weaving mats or making bark-cloth, or plaiting 

 coconut-leaf shutters for the "fales." 



At sundown we were all assembled at the table, which was no 

 more than a long stretch of green banana-leaves laid flat on the 

 ground. Here were piled breadfruit, taro, bananas, pigs, chickens, 

 and fish, all baked out of doors in the famous Samoan fireless 

 cooker, except that at one end, where Captain Ault was seated, a 

 lone browned chicken was standing, cooked in a manner reserved 

 for high chiefs. After blessing the food, our host invited us to 

 attack the mountain spread before us. None of us made use of 

 the knives and forks which had been sent over from the neighbor- 

 ing town; for the Samoan style of eating with the fingers makes 

 everything taste better. 



The feast was followed by an elaborate "siva-siva," in which 

 the whole village participated. This exhibition had been seen 

 on our previous stop in Pago Pago. This time the chief's wife, 



