BATALHA. 97 



lenjT^th. What struck us most on enterin^:^ was its lofti- 

 ness, the narrowness of its aisles, the grand simplicity, and 

 solidity of tlie whole ; moreover, there were no side chapels 

 and no tawdry ornaments to detract from the general 

 effect, and the proportions were admirably preserved. 



The great western doorway deserves particular notice. 

 It is approached by a broad flight of steps, which lead 

 down to the church from the higher ground above ; and as 

 the art of draining has been altogether neglected here, or 

 the drains have become choked, in the not very unusual 

 event of a thunderstorm and during heavy rain a goodly 

 stream rushes down the steps, and reinforced by copious 

 additions which pour from the roofs above, flows unre- 

 strained into the body of the church, which it very soon 

 inundates to the depth of two feet* However, dry weather 

 prevailed previous to and during our visit, so that we 

 could examine the magnificent western portal at our 

 leisure, without the necessity of wading knee-deep into a 

 bath. And indeed the exterior of the great western door- 

 way deserves careful and close inspection, so exquisitely 

 finished are the several series of figures in alto relievo 

 which adorn the deeply-carved mouldings with which it is 

 beset; each figure (and there are in all no less than a 

 hundred) standing on its own light, ornamented pedestal, 

 beneath a canopy of most delicate workmanship. In the 

 centre, above the door, the blessed Saviour is represented, 

 attended by the twelve Apostles and presiding over the 

 Court of Heaven ; and the saints which comprise that 

 celestial court are ranged in order, in seven rows on either 

 hand. To the four Evangelists is given the post of honour, 

 next to the Redeemer ; and then in due course stand the 

 arch-angels, the angels, the confessors, the kings, the mar- 

 tyrs, and, lastly, the virgins ; in an order of precedence we 

 should scarcely have expected amidst a nation so keenly 

 appreciative of etiquette in rank. High above all the 



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