ALC0BA9A. 79 



that we could not regret our niglit journey, though our 

 route lay through a district of great natural beauty, and 

 through valleys and over hills in part highly cultivated, 

 and in part abandoned to wild flowers, rocks, and shrubs. 

 And so we travelled on, seldom much beyond a foot's pace, 

 for which we roundly upbraided our driver, but which 

 subsequent experience taught us was the general speed of 

 Portuguese coaches ; up and down a succession of hills, 

 and seldom on level ground ; till at length, at half-past 

 3 in the morning, we reached the village of Cereal, where 

 the mules were to be rested for two hours : durino- 

 which time we slept soundly in our carriage, and were 

 glad enough to do so, as the rough stony roads we had 

 traversed had altogether prevented sleep during our pro- 

 gress from Carreo^ado. 



The villages which we passed were of a primitive order, 

 and the cottages were generally composed of the material 

 denominated coh, or a mixture of straw and mud ; and the 

 glimpses of Portuguese peasant life which we caught from 

 time to time, caused us involuntarily to exclaim — 



duree tellus Lusitaniae ! 



but the glorious sun spread its golden mantle over their 

 wretched dwellings, and lit up their dingy hovels, and 

 ennobled their poor abodes, and the people looked cheer- 

 ful, contented, and happy. Moreover, the country was 

 charming, and the admiration of Childe Harold was con- 

 tinually before our minds — 



It is a goodly sight to see 

 What Heaven hath done for this delicious land ! 

 "What fruits of fragrance blush on every tree ! 

 What goodly prospects o'er the hills expand ! 



From Cereal to Caldas de Rainha, there was no great 

 attraction in the scenery, except that the country seemed 

 more wooded, and, if possible, more hilly. Very long 



