64 A SPRIXG TOUR IN PORTUGAL. 



that we had just traversed, reached our destination at mid- 

 day, or rather I should say, we reached the railway station 

 of Evora, which lies in the plain below the town nearly a 

 mile from the heart of the city, and from which, in this 

 unsophisticated district, the traveller must make his way 

 with his baggage as he best can, for neither omnibus, cart, 

 or carriage, have hitherto found custom enough to attract 

 them to await the arrival of the one train from the 

 capital. 



Let it not, however, for one moment be imagined from 

 this circumstance that Evora is a place of little impor- 

 tance, for such would be a most erroneous conclusion ; 

 and the use of wheeled carriages, at no time known to 

 any extent in the Peninsula, is only now beginning to be 

 recognised as a necessity in more fashionable localities ; 

 whereas a simple and primitive people are still contented 

 with the horses, mules, and donkeys which their ancestors 

 employed. Indeed, Evora was once the capital of Por- 

 tuo-al, and standinor on a hill, as is the case with all the 

 larger cities in this country, has a very imposing appear- 

 ance ; there is, too, a great air of antiquity about it, and a 

 remarkable quietness and even dullness, such as is wont to 

 hover round our own cathedral cities in England ; and it 

 was through narrow streets almost desested, and by largos 

 and praQCts completely empty and grass-grown, that we 

 walked to our humble hostelry, the best hotel indeed in 

 the city, but of most impretending and, perhaps I should 

 add, unprepossessing exterior, which bore over its doorway 

 the lengthy title ' Hospedaria Eborense vulgo Taberquina,' 

 but which in reality was known as ' Hospedaria Taberquina,' 

 or * Taberquinasinn,' for such was the name of our well- 

 meaning and obliging landlord. 



We had the advantage of our kind friend Mr. Mac- 

 kenna's guidance in our examination of Evora, and as he 

 was thoroughly acquainted with the city, and had passed a 



