CIXTRA. 57 



conditions required. For the same reason, the gardens 

 and shrubberies here are so flourishing', for the scorchinfj 

 rays of the sun are tempered by the cool breezes, and 

 copious springs burst from the mountain side, and trickle 

 down the hills in every gully ; and so camellias and many 

 other kindred shrubs, which cannot exist in the scorching 

 climate of Lisbon, thrive here with a luxuriance that 

 astonishes the Northern traveller. And herein, indeed, 

 consists the real charm of Cintra, the profusion and mag- 

 nificence of its vegetation, which produces plenty of cool 

 shade and a delightful retreat, which can only be duly ap- 

 preciated by those who have been parched, and fried, and 

 powdered by the intolerable summer heat, and glare, and 

 dust of Lisbon. 



During the latter end of April, which we spent in these 

 mountains, the sun was by no means overpowering ; indeed, 

 though the days were hot enough, the nights were almost 

 chilly ; and as I came out to Portugal for the express pur- 

 pose of gaining a good store of caloric, I was not sorry to 

 find myself on the 1st of May on my way back to Lisbon, 

 on the top of an omnibus or diligence, when we had a most 

 amusing journey, and on as splendid a morning as one 

 could desire. For, to our great satisfaction, a large fair 

 was held midway between Cintra and Lisbon ; and the 

 consequence was, that the road was thronged by country 

 people, all in holiday attire. It is true, there was no 

 Jack-in-the-green, such as one may see on May-day in 

 England ; but the costumes of many of these good folks 

 were strange and picturesque enough. Their variety, too, 

 was charming ; and the airs and graces adopted by those 

 most elaborately dressed added much to the quaintness of 

 the scene. Ever3^body was on horseback, if that term may 

 be applied generically to those who bestrode mules and 

 donkeys as well, for by far the larger number was mounted 

 on these inferior animals; and though droves of cattle, 



