32 A SPRING TOUR IN PORTUGAL. 



the spectator is astonished at the magnitude of the work. 

 Nor is he less favourably impressed with this grand design 

 as he follows the long succession of arches to the capital, 

 and there examines the huge reservoir into which the 

 water is poured, and then, ascending to the top, enters 

 the aqueduct itself, and finds himself in a lofty passage or 

 gallery, and while he walks through this spacious en- 

 closed corridor, he sees at his feet two open pipes, one at 

 either side, of which the one is always full of flowing 

 water, and the other acts as a reserve ; and so each takes 

 its turn for six months at a time, while its fellow is cleaned 

 and repaired. 



I must not omit to mention the English church as I 

 speak of Lisbon, for this, with its cypress-planted cemetery, 

 is no unimportant spot on the Estrella, and, overhanging 

 the very beautiful Estrella gardens, is a conspicuous 

 point in a general view of the city. Moreover, it is 

 no small matter to have secured so spacious a church and 

 so large a burial-ground in any southern capital for our 

 much abused, though in reality most catholic. Church 

 of England. As regards the building, indeed, I cannot 

 congratulate my countrymen on its ecclesiastical aspect ; 

 for anything more mean externally, or more ill adapted 

 for our services within, it would be difficult to conceive. 

 Without vestige of chancel, meanly furnished with altar, 

 and with square, well be-curtained boxes on either hand 

 for his Excellency the English Minister at this court; 

 with towering desk, and still more towering pulpit, the 

 great, ugly room which does duty for our church, but is in 

 reality the counterpart of some of our meeting-houses at 

 home, offers to the inhabitants of Portugal but a sorry 

 spectacle of our ecclesiastical arrangements. It is de- 

 plorable, indeed, that such should be the case, and that, 

 with perhaps a natural desire to exhibit to our country- 

 men the contrast between our simple services and the 



